A Tasty Suggestion
Right in the heart of the city’s Old Town is Pronto. It has been a thriving part of Dubrovnik’s restaurant scene since 1886, and was also recently renovated in 2002. This restaurant once played host to King Edward VIII of England, and the food is certainly fit for a king. The excellent fish dishes are some of the best in Dubrovnik, and include many local fishermen’s recipes. Pronto also has one of the largest wine selections in the city, with many local and regional wines included in the list which can be enjoyed whilst out on the terrace in the summer months. One of the best meals you can have is fresh Adriatic shrimps in a parsley sauce. The seafood is caught daily so you can be sure that it is as fresh as you can get.
Tel: +385 (0) 20 32 32 34
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JULY - AUGUST: Dubrovnik Summer Festival. A crammed programme of open-air concerts, drama premières, classical music, film and jazz, taking place across the city.
Tel: +385 (0) 20 326 100.
www.dubrovnik-festival.hr
…and here are some more great things you can do in and around Dubrovnik…
AUGUST: Karantena Festival. Dubrovnik’s fringe event, an alternative to the Summer
Festival, showcasing alternative theatre, modern dance, music and film productions across the city. Tel: +385 (0) 1455 6455.
FEBRUARY 2009: The Dubrovnik Carnival brings both locals and visitors together as carnival goers parade through the streets of the city. Alongside the parade there is traditional jousting in the city centre as hundreds come to watch. Visit www.tzdubrovnik.hr/ to find out more.
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The Christmas Fragrances, Gold and Frankincense Festival
From December 13 – 06 January this festival celebrates Christmas traditions through historical plays and nativity scenes featuring artists from all over the Mediterranean. This event gets the whole town out into the streets either helping out with the event or watching the great performances put on by the city. www.visitdubrovnik.hr
Dubrovnik Carnival
Visiting Dubrovnik in Spring and Summer is always special, when life spills onto the streets and diners pack out tables well into the night. But now there’s good reason to visit in winter, too.
The Dubrovnik Carnival, which normally lasts for four days, has been lengthened to six this year. Book to be in town by Saturday February 11 2008 to enjoy a major carnival parade with participants from Croatia, Italy, Austria, Bosnia, Herzegovina and Slovenia. A masked ball will take place at the Dubrovnik City café and a new children’s masked ball will be held at the Revelin Fort.
It will be the city’s seventh February carnival, each year it gets louder and bigger. Expect to see performances by Dubrovnik singers, masked brass bands, drama from the Marin Dr?i? Theatre and more colour and exuberance than you’re likely to find in any other European city in February.
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“If you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik,” said George Bernard Shaw. High praise indeed, but this is a city that doesn’t disappoint, celebrities not least. Bono, Catherine Zeta Jones, Michael Douglas and Richard Gere all holidayed here last year, while Bill Gates and Stephen Spielberg are regular visitors.
Dubrovnik is essentially medieval, the old town has remained almost untouched by time. Period churches and impressive public buildings weave seamlessly with green-shuttered stone houses, even shop signs are so tightly regulated they’re almost invisible.
One of its chief highlights is the city wall, a well-used walkway around the battlements, and the ideal vantage point to enjoy the city’s vast medieval and Baroque splendours. Astonishingly, there are almost no signs of the horrific 1991-92 Siege of Dubrovnik. Thanks to UNESCO and the European Union, reconstruction has been undertaken with remarkable speed, and just beyond the walls, modern Dubrovnik exudes Mediterranean charm, trees are weighed down with figs, lemons and peaches, gardens are an explosion of colourful bougainvillea and oleanders.
The city is well worth a visit at any time of year, but when the Summer Festival is on in July and August, it comes alive, with open-air pop, jazz and classical concerts and theatre performances, taking place in courtyards, squares and bastions across the town. Visit at the beginning of February and you’ll catch the Feast of St Blaise marked by an impressive parade, followed by a mass and then huge celebrations across town involving plenty of eating and drinking.
Dubrovnik’s history goes back to the early seventh century when it was first settled by Greco-Roman refugees from what is now the nearby city of Cavtat. The Venetians gained control in 1204 but the city’s golden age was in the 15th and 16th centuries, mercantile wealth prompted a huge upturn in culture and the city flourished with great artists, architects and musicians.
With such a wealth of history leaving its mark, the old town overflows with arresting sights. Art-lovers should head to the Dominican Monastery, featuring a wonderful collection of Renaissance art or to the city museum for an impressive array of Baroque works. Musicians might enjoy a glimpse of original manuscripts tracing the early development of musical notation at the 14th century Franciscan monastery or take in a concert by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra who play in the impressive surroundings of the Rector’s Palace.
There’s no shortage of lively night-time haunts and excellent seafood restaurants, but if you simply want to soak up the sun, jump on a taxi-boat to the beaches at Lokrum, just 10 minutes away. This wooded island is where Richard the Lionheart was supposedly ship-wrecked. Popular with tourists, it’s a protected nature reserve and home to an impressive botanical garden and Benedictine abbey.
The Elphite Islands are a short ferry ride from Dubrovnik’s Gru? harbour. Only three of the islands are inhabited and tourism is kept under firm control, cars are all but banned making them about the most mellow resorts to chill out on the Croatian coast.
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One of the great advantages of a visit to Dubrovnik is its size. As it’s not a large city it’s easy to wander about and the old town can be explored on foot in a day.
Start by getting your bearings at Pile Gate, doing a circuit of the old walls, it takes about an hour. Don’t forget your camera, the city views are outstanding - a sea of terracotta tiles, monumental domes and spires. The walls are encrusted with towers and bastions some dating back to the 7th century.
After that you’ll be back at the Stradun, the main street, bisecting the old town. At the western end is a beautiful water fountain, Onofrio’s, built in 1438, the perfect spot to take a break. Then take the narrow passageway right to the Franciscan Monastery, with impressive double-arched cloister and attached museum. Pop in if only to set eyes on the original manuscript of musical notation and what claims to be the oldest pharmacy in Europe.
Then head down the other end of the Stradun to the locals’ favourite meeting place, Orlando’s Column which sits bang in the middle of Lu?a Square. This is usually where the Summer Festival is opened and across the square peek into St Blaise’s Church, a beautiful Baroque building dedicated to the city’s patron saint. Pick one of the square’s restaurants to stop for lunch and then in the afternoon visit the Rector’s Palace just nearby. Inside it’s stuffed with valuable treasures and works of art.
If your legs will allow it, wander north passed Onofrio’s Little Fountain to the Dominican Monastery. It’s well worth a visit, grandly approached by an opulent stone stairway and at the top is a beautiful cloister filled with palms and orange trees. Its museum features a small but stunning collection of Renaissance art, as well as canvasses by Nikola Bo?idarevi?, the leading artist of the time.
After all that culture, enjoy a sundowner on the Stradun. Karlova?ko or O?ujsko are two local beers worth looking out for. Finish the day at the old port, enjoying a feast of seafood and watching the sun set over the Adriatic’s limpid waters.
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During July and August when the summer festival is on, beds are in strong demand so book well ahead. To make booking simple, call 0845 084 8915 or visit www.flybehotels.com for any of the hotels below.
For a special occasion, the five-star Pucic Palace hotel is ideally positioned, the only hotel within the old town’s city walls, perfect for the sights and beach. Just a few steps to the old town is the five-star Argentina Hotel, offering panoramic views across the harbour and town walls. With all the facilities of a modern five-star, the Argentina features an indoor and outdoor pool, tennis courts, sauna and beauty treatment rooms.
The Kompas Hotel is close to the town’s Lapad area and the largest public beach, just 15 minutes to the harbour and 10 minutes to the old town. It offers indoor and outdoor pools, gym and sauna.
Also on the Lapad peninsula is the five-star Palace Hotel, a very modern property with plenty of sports facilities including four pools and positioned right by the beach.
Or consider the President Hotel which offers all the attractions you’d expect of a modern four-star deluxe hotel including its own private beach. www.flybehotels.com
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By road: Dubrovnik airport is 22 km east of the city, near ?ilipi village. Take the coast road from Cavtat west to Dubrovnik city centre. www.airport-dubrovnik.hr
Contact Flybe’s car rental partner Avis for the best available car hire rates.
By bus: Atlas buses run about every 30 minutes to the bus station in town. It takes 25 minutes and costs 30 kunas (€4).
By taxi: Plenty of taxis outside the main terminal.
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Dubrovnik only has a population of about 50,000 and isn’t as big as you might think. The old town is compact and can be covered on foot in a day or so.
To reach the island beaches, you’ll need to catch a ferry from Gru?, three km west of the old town. In summer it’s a hot slog from the old town, so catch a 1A or number 3 bus. Tickets for local buses can be bought from the bus driver, 10kn but no change given, or more cheaply (7kn) from newspaper kiosks.
The main bus terminal is about 500 metres from the ferry terminal at Gru?.
Dubrovnik tourist board has an information point on the old town’s main street, Stradun, tel: +385 (0) 20 321 561, and has information and timetables on ferries and buses.
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If you visit when the Summer Festival is in full swing, there’s no shortage of jazz and pop concerts. For cultural events, the Marin Dr?i? Theatre, tel: +386 (0) 20 426 437) stages a full programme of Croatian plays.
The Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra plays at either the Rector’s Palace or the DSO-dedicated concert hall, tel: +385 (0) 20 417 101. www.dso.hr
For an evening drink, make your way to Stradun, the old town’s main street, it’s lined with pubs and bars full of friendly locals. For a home-from-home atmosphere try the lively Irish Bar, tel: +385 (0) 20 323992, close to the Stradun.
Latino Club Fuego, Brsalje Street near Pile Gate, is one of the most popular discos with both tourists and locals, open from 10pm-4am Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Jazz fans should head to the Troubadour Hard Jazz Café or try Sesame, Pile Street in the old town which has live music at weekends.
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Diving: The Adriatic Sea off the coast of Dubrovnik is one of the world’s best diving areas in the world. With some of the most beautiful underwater life to see and three sea wrecks to see it is one of the best things to do in the area. You will be taken under by qualified diving instructors who can provide full pre-dive training.
www.dubrovnik-diving.com
Climbing and Hiking: As one of the first nations to be part of the national climbing association, Croatia is one of the most interesting and challenging places to climb and hike in Europe. The region poses a challenge to both experienced and inexperienced climbers the climbing association also has guides and trained climbers available to help you. Phone +385 (0) 148 236 24. www.dubrovnik-online.com
Adventure Park: Located in an ex military base in Southern Croatia, the Prevlaka adventure park has everything you need for an energetic night out. It offers climbing, paintballing, a nature park, and bike riding, including many other activities. The park is run by trained professionals and caters for both small and large groups. www.prevlaka.com
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City walls: Open in summer 9am-7pm daily, winter 10am-3pm. Audio guides in English available, tel: +385 (0)20 420 192. Built in the 10th century, they circle the entire old town and offer outstanding views from the guards’ walkway.
Pile Gate: Northernmost entrance to the old town. Accessible by a 1417 stone bridge, crossing a moat, now a park filled with fruit trees.
Mineta Tower: The most visited of the walls’ defences, the semi-circular tower is topped by a second tower and on top of that, embrasures built to defend the city.
Onofrio Fountain. Named after its Italian architect and built in 1438, it’s one of Dubrovnik’s landmark sights, set in the square immediately after Pile Gate.
Franciscan Monastery: Open 9am-4pm daily in summer, but unpredictable in winter, tel: +385 (0) 20 321 410. Began in 1317 but rebuilt after an earthquake in 1667, features one of the oldest functioning pharmacies in Europe, dating back to 1391.
Orlando’s Column: Set in the Square of the Loggia, the town’s most popular meeting point. To the east is the Clock Tower and nearby is the Loggia of the Bell.
Sponza Palace: Open 8am-3pm by appointment, free entry, tel: +385 (0) 20 321 032. Impressive Renaissance loggia on ground floor and Venetian Gothic three-mullioned window on the first. Formerly the town mint in the 14th century, it now houses State archives. Its grand courtyard often features art exhibitions or summer concerts.
Rector’s Palace: Open 9am-2pm Monday to Saturday, tel: +385 (0) 20 321 437. Built in 1435, it was the seat of the Ragusan government, housing all the major offices of state. An architectural masterpiece with ornate arcaded loggia and columns, now a city museum packed with valuable and historic exhibits. The atrium is popular for summer recitals.
Gundiliceva Poljana square: The scene for the busy morning market.
Fort of St John. Aquarium: Open 10am-6pm daily in summer, 9am-1pm Monday to Saturday in winter, tel: +385 (0) 20 427 937. On the lower floor of the fort house, the aquarium offers a variety of marine life. Above is the Maritime Museum, tel: +385 (0) 20 426 465 outlining the city’s maritime history through ships, prints and diaries.
Mount Sr: Towering above the city, climbing to the top gives stunning views across the coast.
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Trsteno: An essential day-trip if you have a passion for gardens. Its 1502 villa is surrounded by the most decadent horticultural designs spread along a terrace overlooking the sea, and nearby is an arboretum.
ilipi: Easily reached by bus from Dubrovnik, folklore shows take place on the village’s central flagstone square every summer Sunday. A 40-minute medley of traditional songs and dances are performed by locals in brightly coloured costumes, straight after mass.
The Elaphite Islands: An easy ferry ride away, perfect for discovering the unspoilt Croatian Adriatic. Only three of the islands are inhabited and have a wonderful, laid-back sunny charm.
Mlje: In summer, a catamaran sails from Dubrovnik to the island of Mljet, an unspoilt, lush strip of land boasting two saltwater lakes and the Mljet National Park. It’s reckoned to be the island where St Paul was bitten by a viper on one of his missionary journeys. The island is renowned for its exceptional natural beauty and although popular with tourists, is invitingly peaceful and the perfect antidote to the city’s bustle.
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Coming soon.
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Croatia is tipped to become a new member of the EU in 2009, and because of this there is a fair amount of pre-EU hype in their property market. The nations property market is drawing more and more attention every month from British buyers, especially on the back of Bulgaria’s recent EU property boom. The hype has had a positive effect on the Croatian property market with prices rising at a steady 20% over the last five years. Croatia is being tipped as the next big place to invest in so many will be jumping on the property train over the next 5 years.
Although Croatia is still seen as an ‘emerging market’ on the property scene, in Dubrovnik prices are rising fast. Over the past couple of years, the area has attracted a number of high-profile buyers including Prince Charles, John Malkovich (who paid £3 million for a derelict villa near Dubrovnik) and footballer Rio Ferdinand.
Although there are fewer old properties for sale, new building is booming and represents far better value for money than other European hotspots such as Spain. Furthermore, building restrictions are sufficiently tight that its beautiful coastline will be kept intact.
www.amberlamb.com
www.dubrovnik-area.com/real-estate
The British Embassy provides a list of English-speaking lawyers
www.britishembassy.gov.uk
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If there were any doubts over the growth in Dubrovnik’s tourist appeal, a quick glance at last year’s visitor list sets the record straight. Last summer Hollywood’s glitziest couple Catherine Zeta Jones and Michael Douglas ambled around the port. Woody Harrelson dropped by for the Libertas Film Festival, while Nick Nolte attended the Summer Festival. U2’s Bono dropped anchor at the port while sailing on a family holiday. And fashion designer Valentino sipped cocktails with his friends at his favourite Hemingway Bar, opposite Rector’s Palace.
It’s little wonder the city is such a celebrity hit, Dubrovnik has no official paparazzi - just a single newspaper photographer who takes one picture and then leaves them alone. To see it for himself, Richard Gere spent three days in the city, a break from filming in Bosnia. He strolled around the Stradun and old town without a care in the world.
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Photos courtesy of Dubrovnik Tourist Board |
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