A Tasty Suggestion
Set in an old theatre, the Flo Nice is the brainchild of a former Hotel Négresco chef who took over the premises and created a unique setting to enjoy an evening meal in. Diners are seated in the old theatre pit and can watch their meals being prepared in the kitchen that is situated in the old stage area. Framed by a red curtain, the kitchen takes the lead role, with chefs providing diners with the best in Mediterranean cuisine as well as the recent addition of Japanese inspired meals following a tour of the country by chef Bertrand Comele. Typically, patrons can start their meal with a fresh shrimp salad, enjoy fillet of John Dory with oyster mushrooms and asparagus as a main course and indulge in Valrhona chocolate soufflé on orange dentelle biscuit for dessert. The old theatre is beautifully preserved with authentic decorations and the atmosphere will make for a night to remember.
Call +33 (0) 4 93 13 38 38
www.flonice.com
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NOVEMBER 2008: The Manca contemporary music festival brings together some of the best in new orchestral music. Held at the CIRM building in the city it has some of the best new talent today. Visit www.cirm-manca.org/ for further information.
...and here are more great things to do and see in and around Nice…
DECEMBER 2008: The Nice Christmas Village is held on the Place Massena and is packed with craft stalls filled with local knick knacks and art works. To find out more go to www.nicetourisme.com
FEBRUARY – MARCH 2009: The Nice Carnival is the place to be in winter on the French Riviera. With a fortnight of action packed fun there are parades, concerts and fireworks to keep crowds entertained. Go to www.nicecarnaval.com/ to find out more.
MARCH 2009: The Nice boat show sees some 15,000 visitors come and see jaw dropping vessels that are on display up close. A rare opportunity to see such expensive and awesome boats. To find out more go to www.nicecotedazurboatshow.com/
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Take the tram
Getting around Nice has just become even easier with a new tramway. Some 54 years ago the old tramway was closed down after falling into disrepair, with the last tram being pulled from service in January 1953. However, the mayor and local authorities feel that the new problems of navigating the city centre can be resolved using the old solution. The tramcars have been specially designed to blend in with Nice’s unique architecture and are a welcome sight to tired shoppers wanting to get back to hotels after a long day of spending.
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Nice has a glitz and sparkle in its eye like no other city in France. It has a superb, Mediterranean sun-drenched setting on the Bay of Angels, which combined with extreme shopping, first-rate museums, fantastic people-watching on the Promenade des Anglais, and a renowned sex-appeal, has made it one of Europe’s most fashionable year-round retreats. Yet the old town still maintains its rustic charm, with pansy-filled balconies, fountains and public squares, hand-painted awnings and beautiful churches, and where there are bustling markets, frenetic fish trading at Place St-Francois and the flower market on Cours Salaya.
This is France’s fifth-largest town and its most visited city after Paris. Thanks to its excellent bus and train connections, Nice is by far the best base for visiting the rest of the Riviera and is just a short spin away from the rich glamour of Monte Carlo.
Like many French towns, Nice splits more or less into old and new. The lively old town squeezes in between the promontory and the sea, and blazes with colour. It’s a cluster of picturesquely narrow streets, houses crammed in so tightly at points they almost seem to touch.
Over the years, Nice has wowed countless artists and they’ve left their mark at the 19 museums and galleries. If you’re after truly impressive canvasses, visit Musée Chagall, opened by Marc Chagall himself in 1972 to showcase his 17 Biblical paintings, or drop in to the Musée Matisse where the outstanding collection is housed in a 17th century Genoese villa.
Sweeping along the seafront, with its pebbly beach, is the glamorous, palm-lined Promenade des Anglais, created by 19th century English residents for their afternoon’s seaside stroll. Although the traffic’s a nightmare, this is the scene for some of the Cote D’Azur’s most flamboyant turn-of-the-century architecture. It’s a great spot for people-watching and in the heat of the summer, you can cool off at the lavish fountains.
When night falls, the promenade teems with street performers, musicians and trend-setting locals. In fact the night life in Nice rocks on long after the revellers at St Tropez and Antibes have headed home. So if you’re a party animal, head to rue Masséna and Vieux Nice to hit the dance floor or pulsate to rock and jazz.
And when it comes to eating out, Provençal cuisine is about the best in France and, what’s more, it’s healthy. Based on olive oil, fresh vegetables and seafood, there’s little better in life than feasting on fresh lobster and salade Niçoise gazing out across the sparkling Med. Although the town overflows with great restaurants, there’s plenty of good food for every budget. Pick up a pan bagnat at a local bakery, a bread loaf crammed with tuna, sardines and vegetables, for a mouth-watering, inexpensive lunch.
If you’re after beaches, there are some treasures at Cap Martin and St Jean Cap Ferrat, between Monaco and Nice. And remember, no-one is deemed too old to wear a bikini here.
Come to Nice for the food, glitz and sun, but above all, for the sheer fun the place.
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To get your bearings and fill your lungs with the fresh air and scent of the Mediterranean, start off at Château Park, it’s where Nice started as the ancient Greek city of Nikea; there are plenty of mosaics and Grecian-style vases as a reminder. Although there’s no château as such, you can climb the 400 steps for excellent panoramic views over the Bay of Angels and across the town.
Then spend some time ambling around the old town, time it to encounter the bustle of the fish and flower markets on Place St François or Cours Salaya. The area has been hugely spruced up in recent years and it’s the ideal quarter for souvenir hunting in the small shops and galleries. There are numerous beautiful churches to pop into and dozens of tempting corner cafès.
After lunch, take a bus to the Matisse Museum. Because it’s small, it’s easily manageable so then board the free bus connection to the Chagall Museum (ask at the ticket desk), to contrast the old master with Chagall’s 20th century Biblical messages.
If you want to dine on the best seafood, the port quaysides have very good fish restaurants for an evening meal. In peak season they’re almost always booked up, so avoid the crowds and dine early which will give plenty of time to enjoy the street entertainment and a digestif on the Promenade des Anglais. If nothing else, it gives the chance to gawp at some of the flashiest dressers in Europe.
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If you’re planning to visit Nice in summer, it’s vital to book at least two or three weeks ahead. Hotels around the station are less desirable and ill-advised for lone female travellers, but there are plenty of inexpensive options in the old town.
Visit www.flybehotels.com for a huge choice, from one- to four-star.
The two-star Med Hotel is perfect for a quick shopping trip or budget weekend break with rooms from £32.75 per person per night. It’s located in a quiet street behind Negresco, just two minutes walk from the seafront.
The three-star Locarno, which is traditionally French in character with Art Deco wrought-iron balconies, is also just metres from the beach and ideal for restaurants and shops, or stay at the tastefully furnished Univers Hotel, 10 minutes from the Promenade des Anglais.
For something more sumptuous, splash out on a room at the four-star La Perouse, set just below the castle, it gives perfect access for the old town and has a magnificent terrace surrounded by gardens which feature a whirlpool, Jaccuzzi and fitness centre, and provide unhindered views of the sea.
Alternatively, the four-star Quality Excellior on the Promenade des Anglais offers sea views from all rooms or opt for the Beau Rivage, elegantly furnished and steps from the old town and famous flower market.
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By road: The airport is 7km west of the city centre. Take the N98 west to Promenade des Anglais. Contact Flybe’s car rental partner Avis for best available car hire rates.
By bus: Bus No. 23 runs to Nice train station every 13 minutes from 6am-8.50pm, Monday to Saturday. It costs €4, buy tickets on the bus.
By taxi: Plenty of taxis outside Arrivals terminal. They operate 24 hours a day with a journey time of 15 minutes, expect to pay €20.
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Bus: Nice is served by a dense bus route network across the town and beyond. A single fare system operates both downtown and to 23 neighbouring towns. To plan your trip www.lignedazur.com
Tickets are sold on buses, €1.30 for a single journey, €20 for 17 trips (which can also be used by a group), €4 for an unlimited travel one-day pass, seven-day passes cost €75. Noctambus service operates from Jean-Claude Bermond station.
Taxis: For taxis, tel Central Taxi Riviera: 33 (0) 4 93 13 78 78. Taxi ranks are located across town including Promenade des Anglais, Gare SCNF and Place Garibaldi.
Bike and boats: There are plenty of bike and boat rental options, for a list of firms from the tourist office www.nicetourisme.biz
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Cycling: Travel around Nice at your own pace by renting a cycle. A great activity for autumn and winter when sun worshippers are traditionally hiding away but the weather is still balmy. An ideal route would be down Promenade des Anglais but with much of Nice pedestrianised there will be plenty to see from the coast to the outskirts of the city. Don’t worry if you don’t have any cycles of your own, you can hire them from Roller Station. Tel: +33 (0) 4 93 62 99 05.
4X4 exursions: Drivers looking for a challenge can put their skills to the test with the 4D Organisation. Set on a course made up of 95% natural track beginners and experts will find the challenge they are looking for. For those who want to try something smaller the site also has host of other things to mix in with the package; quad biking, rafting and paragliding too, all with experienced, qualified professionals. Tel: +33 (0) 6 62 95 30 30
www.4d-organisation.com
Scuba diving: The beautiful, blue seas of the Mediterranean are begging to be explored. With Nice Diving you can take a dive and explore the reefs and get acquainted with the numerous residents. Those who want to stick to the surface will be glad to know that snorkelling activities are also available. You don’t have to be worried about equipment or training as they are provided and more experienced divers will find that there are plenty of things for them to do too. Details are available on the website. Tel: +33 (0) 4 93 89 42 44 www.nicediving.com
Horse riding: Three miles from Nice you can experience the thrills of riding at the area’s premiere riding centre. Unlike other schools the horses enjoy most of their time in open park space. All activities are carried out in a series of outdoor riding rinks and sessions can last up to an hour for around £10. Tel: +33 (0) 6 63 79 07 20
http://hippo-camps.com
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Rocky shores, pebbly beaches and millionaire villas line the frenzied coastal highway between Nice and Monaco. This stretch of road has been the backdrop for dozens of films including Dirty Rotten Scoundrels, James Bond and Hitchcock movies.
Monaco: A day-trip to Monaco is a must. Dripping with Lamborghinis, yachts and billionaires, the sheer spectacle of the place makes it worth the trip. The glitz and money is concentrated in Monte Carlo, where you’ll find the famous casino.
Grassse: Head inland and you’ll find Grassse, perfume capital of the world, where you can tour the perfumeries for free, test out the samples at the International Perfum Museum or just wander about the old town and cathedral.
Antibes: To the west of Nice is Antibes, inspiration and home of Picasso
Haut-de-Cagnes: Further east is the fortified medieval town of Haut-de-Cagnes, where Renoir spent the last 12 years of his life.
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The main tourist office is beside the railway station on avenue Thiers, tel +33 (0) 4 92 82 82. You can buy a Carte Musée Côte d’Azur for €8 giving cut-price entry to all 19 museums and galleries. On the first and third Sunday of the month, all museums and galleries are free.
Musée National Message Biblique Chagall: tel +33 (0) 4 93 53 87 20, open October-June 10am-5pm and July-September 10am-6pm everyday except Tuesday. Entry €6.50 adults, €4.50 children. Guided tours in English. Chagall founded this museum himself to house his exceptional 17 Old Testament paintings. Apart from the artwork, it’s worth visiting for the beautiful garden.
www.musee-chagall.fr
Musée Matisse: Tel: +33 (0) 4 93 81 08 08. Entry €4 adults, €2.50 children. Open daily except Tuesday 10am-6pm. This was originally a 17th century Genoese villa, set in the olive-studded Parc des Arènes, Matisse fell in love with Nice and left the city his work. His last piece, the gargantuan paper cut-out Flowers and Fruit, dominates the whole side of the entrance hall
www.musee-matisse-nice.org
Le Château: The formal name of an 11th century cathedral and is set in an impressive ornamental park with waterfall. It’s worth climbing the 400 steps for outstanding panoramic views.
Vieux Nice: Old Nice has been greatly gentrified over the past couple of decades, but chic shops, expensive restaurants and art galleries still sit side-by-side with small hardware stores and working men’s cafès. Don’t miss the restored ‘ogival arches’ dating from medieval times, the Palais de Justice, Palais de la Préfecture, L’Opéra or the Hôtel de Ville. Each morning (except Mondays) le cours Saleya market is held from 6am-1pm with gorgeous displays of fruit, vegetables, cheeses and sausages.
Outdoors: Nice also has some 150 ornamental parks, lakes and fountains scattered across the town, ideal for escaping the searing heat in summer.
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Tucked away in a quiet corner of Nice, Bar des Oiseaux, offers a variety of live jazz, comedians and entertainers on stage. If you’re after a cooling sundowner or an evening ice cream, find a seat on the terrace at Le Lagon.
But to dance the night away head to the hip and wild Disco Butterfly, one of the newest clubs on Nice’s disco scene.
For great music and dancing with a sophisticated crowd, try L’Ambassade or Le Ghost. OpÈra de Nice (+33 (0) 4 93 13 98 53) stages operas, concerts and recitals at various locations including the Acropolis and the Theatre de Nice
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Nice is an affluent city so property prices are high and houses are in demand. There is a lot of land awaiting development west of the city and the best value property tends to be located north of the railway station.
As the next most expensive city after Paris the cost of an apartment can range from anywhere between £55,000 to £370,000 or more depending on the location and number of bedrooms available.
The new tramway is aimed at making travel through Nice easier but is also aimed at rejuvenating the east of the city. Properties within walking distance of a tram-stop saw a growth in price that was 17% greater than the average trend in growth.
The city is also engaged in several other projects including the creation of a new student district and upgrading the Nice bypass route. People who want to let properties are almost guaranteed a return on their property as the rental market is thriving.
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Coming soon.
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The English have loved and visited Nice for centuries, leaving their mark most notably at the Promenade des Anglais. But it’s Mont Baron, a hillside rising high up away from the port, which attracts Nice’s most expensive and desirable residences. It’s here you’ll find the opulent pads owned by the likes of Elton John.
Mont Baron is also where you’ll find Château de l’Anglais. Built in 1859 by Robert Smith, a retired English colonel, the château was constructed without the benefit of single architect’s plan and breaks every known engineering rule. It’s a pink, frilly mansion with a 200-step staircase down to the sea, awash with marble pavilions, statues and ostentatious marble benches. Smith’s overblown design also included a couple of ports, one for his guests, the other for boats.
You may well hear the boom of a cannon at noon while you’re here, for which you can blame another English eccentric. The ‘Canon du Midi’ is the legacy of a British hotel guest who became so fed up with his wife for forgetting to join him for lunch that he had a canon installed on the roof of his hotel. It was shot at noon everyday to jog her memory.
Even after he left the Riviera, the practice continued, and still does to this day.
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