A Tasty Suggestion
Restaurant Les Fresques
Just outside Bergerac is the Chateau de Vigiers country club which houses the restaurant Les Fresques. Built in the old chateau, the restaurant overlooks the chateau grounds and golf course.
The restaurant has a warm and welcoming feel with stunning views to match, and it also serves highly innovative French cuisine. With a lengthy wine list at affordable prices the main Restaurant les fresques has a wonderfully relaxed feel to it.
The chateau also has a brasserie section which is built into the old wine-making house next to the main restaurant. The Le Chai brasserie has a fascinating decor and can offer you a relaxing lunch from €17 or you can have a full three course meal from €32 either inside or out.
Tel: +33 (0)5 53 61 5029
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JULY – AUGUST 2008: Every Wednesday throughout the summer Jazz nights are held in the courtyard of the cloisters in Bergerac’s Mansion du Vin. Musicians from all over southern France come to showcase their talent, and this is a great way to spend a relaxing evening out. www.bergerac-tourisme.com
...and here are some more great things to
do and see in Bergerac …
WEEKLY: Every Wednesday and Saturday, outside the beautiful Notre Dame church in the centre of town, is the Bergerac food market. The market has much to offer, with local food, wine and flowers for you to choose from. The market is also famous for its foie gras.
DAILY: The "metal market" held daily in the centre of the city was built in 1885 and still holds much of its traditional values. Buy arts and crafts, a local bottle of wine, or just wind your way through the market and take in the
sights and smells that it has to offer. Open daily from 10.00 - 18.00.
AUGUST 2008: The Bergerac beer festival offers visitors locally brewed beer and fantastic regional food to make it one of its best festivals of the year. For further information go to www.holidayfrance.org.uk
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The Other Festival
The l'autre festival, literally meaning "the other" festival, is a two-day event held on August 24-25 of street theatre and concerts for the whole town. The town also puts on a series of short films - made by film makers from the Dordogne - in local shops and businesses to showcase their talent. Children are also invited to join in workshops around the town.
www.bergerac-tourisme.com
Themed guided visits
New themed guided visits are being launched this summer by Bergerac Pourpre Tourist Office (tel: +33 (0) 5 53 57 03 11). A series of different tours on history, architecture, the Dordogne River, vineyards and local specialities are scheduled, with tickets costing €4 from the tourist office. A new three-hour train trip to the vineyards is also being introduced this summer which will give visitors a chance to find out about wine-making, talk to vineyard owners and sample a few glasses. Tickets cost €10 from the tourist office.
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Bergerac is located in the heart
of the Dordogne, a long-time favourite of wine aficionados and
British buyers of French property.
This is a beautiful little city
where swans swim in the Dordogne River and a clutch of medieval,
half-timbered houses cluster around the old river port. In the
13th century it was a major crossroads because of its bridge, at that time the only one on the river, as a result, it evolved naturally into a thriving commercial city and trading port.
Its fortunes took a dip in the 16th century when many Bergeracois became Protestants and left the town, by the end of the 17th century around 40,000 of its inhabitants had emigrated to England or Holland. But the city revived at the end of the 19th century thanks to its flourishing wine industry, the national gunpowder works and tobacco.
Bergerac is still the major market place for the surrounding maize, vine and tobacco farms making it full of bustling local life and thoroughly enjoyable to visit.
It's the largest town in the Périgord Pourpre region, an area that gets its name form the purple grapes growing in its acres of surrounding vineyards, producing grapes for some of France's best-loved red wines. However the most famous are the sweet whites produced around Monbazillac.
It's now essentially a modern town with plenty of attractive reminders of its past and a number of interesting museums, ample opportunity for al fresco dining and street markets galore.
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Narrow alleys with leaning wood-frame and terracotta houses evocative of the 15th and 16th centuries dominate the carefully restored vieille ville, a calm and pleasant area to amble through with drinking fountains on street corners and stunning 17th century houses in the rue de l'Ancien-Pont.
The tree-lined Place de la Myrpe offers one of the town's best photo opportunities, featuring a prominently-nosed statue of the swashbuckling Cyrano de Bergerac, the town?s best-known figure; on the top of Pélissière Square, a new Cyrano de Bergerac (statue), created by contemporary sculptor Mauro Corda, overviews the old town. The hero of Edmond Rostand, Savinien de Cyrano did exist, he was a cadet in the regiment des Gardes - but he never set foot in the town.
Bergerac is often regarded as the gateway to the Dordogne Perigord, a popular area with second home owners due to its rolling farmland striped with vines. It boasts over 13 appellations and more than 1200 vineries, which open their doors for some very tempting wine-tasting (cf. "La Route des Vins").
Besides its wine, the region is highly regarded for gastronomy and produces wonderful
geese and duck dishes rich in truffles, walnuts and strawberries. This is not
the place for calorie counting.
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If it's a Wednesday or Saturday, visit the vast market in the covered halles in the old town centre and around Notre-Dame church. The tables are packed with every kind of local produce and mingling with the locals makes a wonderfully bright start to the day.
Alternatively, after breakfast, start the morning with a walking tour of the old city and then, perhaps, a visit to the Musée Régional de la Batellerie (see above) detailing the local wine-making industry and just outside in the square, you can have a picture taken beside the famous Cyrano statue.
Stop for a break at a brasserie for lunch in the old town. Ambling around the medieval houses and the splendid 17th century streets takes you to the Musée du Tabac (details above). Even if you have no interest at all in the tobacco weed, it's interesting to see the pipes, snuff boxes and tools of the trade on display.
A must on any tour is a visit to the Cháteau de Lanquais, a fortified castle joined to a prestigious Renaissance palace that was constructed by the builders of the Louvre. Fully furnished, the cháteau features apartments, kitchens, living rooms and arms rooms.
Call +33 (0) 5 53 61 24 24 for opening times.
(about 3/4 hours from Bergerac): A visit to the residence of the philosopher Michel Eyquem, Lord of Montaigne. Eyquem spent much of his time writing essays in the tower. Call +33 (0) 5 53 58 63 93 for details.
You can also visit the Musée des Fouilles Gallo-Romaines (tel: +33 (0) 5 53 58 50 18) with its first and fourth century remains. Reworked in the Middle Ages, it was a Gallo-Roman villa with peristyle and inner courtyard.
Finish the day with a feast at one of the smarter Bergerac establishments or dine al fresco in one of the pretty courtyards, and then, if it's summer, enjoy the free jazz or classical entertainment with a glass or two of the wonderful local Bergerac wine.
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There are plenty of small, family-run
hotels in the centre and some wonderful cháteaux and luxury properties
further out of town. Four-poster beds, open-log fires and lavish
furnishings adorn many of these country cháteaux making them splendid
for a short stress-busting break. Golf, sports, beauty and spa
packages are also offered at the four-star properties. If you're looking for a stay without stretching the
budget there are plenty of top value hotels in the centre, many
in lovely old town houses. The Bergerac website features eight
two-star options, as well as 15 three-star choices, almost all
with pools. www.bergerac-tourisme.com
Off season you'll find a room relatively easily,
but from June to September it's advisable to pre-book.
Built at the time of Louis the 14th, the three-star Manoir du Grand Vignoble
is located 12 km from Bergerac in the heart of Perigord countryside amid 100
acres of land and with its own lake. Also available is the small family-run three-star
De Bordeaux situated in the heart of the old town. Facilities include a restaurant,
bar and swimming pool. The two-star Maison de la Foret is a lovely 18th century
Perigordian house set in 15 acres of forest, just 10 minutes drive to the heart
of Bergerac.
Reservations: + 44 (0) 871 900 8297 www.flybehotels.com
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By car: Explore the city and the countryside in comfort and style at great prices! Get the best deal by checking Flybe's partner Avis for the best available car hire rates at www.flybe.com/avis
By road: Bergerac town centre is located 6km (4 miles) from Roumaniére airport. Contact Flybe's car rental partner Avis for best available car hire rates.
www.flybe.com/avis
By rail: There is no train service into the town.
By bus/coach: There is no bus or coach transfer.
By taxi: Waiting taxis meet Flybe flights. The 15-minute journey to the town centre costs between €10 and €15.
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Bergerac is easily navigated on foot, indeed you need no other form of transport to explore the town. The tourist office is a two minute walk north-east of the old town and the train station is at the end of Course Alsace-Lorraine, 10 minutes walk north from the old town.
You can rent bicycles at numerous shops, a comprehensive list is on bergerac-tourisme.com, ideal for exploring along the banks of the Dordogne.
www.bergerac-tourisme.com
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Aqua
Park Bergerac: Along the Bergerac to Bordeaux road is
the fun packed aqua swimming park. Open May through to September
the complex has four swimming pools and two water chutes to keep
you and the rest of the family entertained. The complex also
offers a range of other activities such as mountain biking, beach
volleyball, canoeing, mini golf and much more. Phone +33 (0)
553 583 300 for more details.
Golf: Chateau
des Vigiers is one of the better golf courses in the area. This
par 72 18-hole golf course has beautiful scenery and is suitable
to golfers of all abilities and can be a challenge to any seasoned
golfer. At €50 per person on weekdays this is not the cheapest
course in the area but the views and hopefully the golf, make up
for it. Phone +33 (0) 553 61 50 00
Le Petit
Train: Starting
from the old port in Bergerac you can take a scenic tour of the
town on an old train as it slowly winds its way through the whole
city past all the major sights. The attraction runs until the end
of October. For more information phone +33 (0) 553 73 38 37
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The average price spent by Britons on a house in Bergerac is €200,000 according to Peter Doyle, a property agent in Bergerac. Over the last decade the types of property being snapped up by British buyers has changed also. In 1997 buyers wanted a farmhouse with lots of land surrounding it but now more Brits are buying in villages and small towns where there is more of a community aspect.
Prices in the Bergerac region peaked in 2003 and have remained
steady since. Within the surrounding area Bergerac is the second
most expensive location in the Dordogne coming in behind Brantome,
and Sarlat, but ahead of Riberac. This is because of its fantastic
commuting prospects, being on the main road between Bordeaux and
Perigueux. Currently you can buy a five-bed town house in the centre
of Bergerac for €207,000.
Over the past decade the number of British second home owners has been rocketing. The local Chamber of Commerce is outstandingly helpful and provides an excellent service for potential business investors, offering help with project analysis, information on the economy, contacts with other partners, advice on grants, technical and financial aspects. Contact them at : Chambre de Commerce et d'Industrie de Dordogne at Périgueux tel: +33 (0) 5 53 35 8080. www.dordogne.cci.fr
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The National Tobacco Museum: The National
Tobacco Museum is well worth a visit if only to enjoy the handsome,
turreted Maison Peyraréde in Place du Feu. It's full of curiosities
that trace the evolution of snuff, pipes, cigars and cigarettes
in Europe. It is, ironically, non-smoking.
Open from Tuesday
to Friday, 10am to 12am and 2pm to 6pm; Saturday:10am to 12am
and 2pm to 5pm; Sunday: 2.30pm to 6.30pm. From the mid-November
to the mid-March: the museum is closed on Saturday and Sunday
afternoon.
Adult: €3.50; children (10-18 years): €2
The Musée Régional
de la Batellerie: In the heart of the old town in rue
des Conférences, the Musée Régional de la Batellerie offers intriguing
displays on viticulture, barrel-making and the town's bustling
river-trading past. Outside in the square is the Cyrano de Bergerac
statue.
Open from Tuesday to Friday, 10am to 12am and 2pm to 5.30pm; Saturday:10am
to 12am; Sunday: 2.30pm to 6.30pm.
From the mid-November to the mid-March the museum is closed on Sunday afternoon.
Adult: €2.50; children (10 to 18 years): €1.50)
Cloître des
Récollets: The charming 16th century
Cloître des Récollets serves as the Maison des Vins.
It's the headquarters of the regional wine council and stocks a huge choice
of Bergerac vintages. (Open everyday in July and August, from 10am to 7pm.
The rest of the year: from Tuesday to Saturday: 10.30am to 12.30am and from
2pm to 6pm. Open each first Sunday morning of the month. Closed in January.
Free admission.
www.bergerac-tourisme.com
www.bergerac.fr
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Bergerac is the gateway to the Dordogne region (or what the French call Périgord). Over a hundred vineyards offer tours and tastings, simply follow the designated Route des Vines.
The Dordogne valley is also dotted with castles and cháteaux. The fairytale Cháteau de Monbazillac, about six kilometres south of Bergerac, is not to be missed. It's open June-Sep daily 10.00-19.00, May and October daily 10.00-12.30 and 14.00-19.00, November-April daily 10.00-12.00 and 14.00-17.00 but is closed in January. Admission €6.
The beauty of this particular cháteau is that it remains essentially unchanged since the day it was built in 1550. This well-preserved Renaissance fortress is an ideal compromise between the necessities of defence and beauty. The grounds and two lower floors are open to the public, with displays of its famous sweet wine while the museum features plenty of local traditions and handicrafts. You can purchase the velvety, sweet white wine, best consumed with desserts or chilled as an aperitif, at the Cave de Monbazillac (closed Sundays).
West from Bergerac along the Dordogne River, the first main town is Ste-Foy-La-Grande, its narrow central streets retain a number of ancient houses. One of these houses the tourist office at 102 rue de la R?publique (+33 (0) 5 57 46 0300) which provides lists of local wine-tasting sessions and chambres d'hôte. Thirteen kilometres away at Montcaret is a fourth-century Gallo-Roman villa with outstanding mosaics and baths as well as an on-site museum.
If you've time the important prehistoric sites of Les Eyzies de Tayac and Lascaux are only a few miles from Bergerac town.
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Bergerac is not known for its hectic nightlife, but it does have two night clubs and a cinema (inevitably named Cinema le Cyrano). La Poissonnerie on rue Colonel de Chadois is a late-night bar. If you find yourself here in July and August, there?s nothing better than enjoying cool jazz on a sultry summer Wednesday evening, or sitting in the cloisters at the Maison des Vins for a classical repertoire.
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Although its vineyards spread across 93 villages, covering over 12,000 hectares, Bergerac's industry is far more than just wine. The town encompasses 880 companies, 1540 commercial businesses and 1079 service suppliers. While its population is only 27,000, the surrounding towns and villages give it a population of over 140,000, employed in a thriving economy.
Unsurprisingly agriculture (cattle, sheep and pig farming) and associated industries - agricultural research, food-processing, fruit and veg production - are the major employers. Other sectors include wood, electronics, mechanics, metallurgy, paper printing, chemicals, shoes and leather and the Tobacco Research Institute Laboratory.
Tourism is, of course, of major importance. The area's low population density, outstanding architecture, fortified towns (bastide), history, wine and gastronomy pull in thousands of tourists year on year.
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Although widely associated with the town, Cyrano de Bergerac, a fictional big-nosed lead character in Edmond Rostand's play, never set foot in the town and nor did his real-life inspiration, Savinien de Cyrano, despite the fact that numerous roads and shops have adopted the name.
Apart from his unfortunate nose, the real Cyrano de Bergerac had very little in common with the hero of the Rostand play and led a somewhat jinxed life.
He was born in Paris in 1619. He came to fame as a dueller and bohemian, joining the army at the age of 20. However, as an opponent of war and the death penalty, he was hardly ideal for the job.
He was wounded twice, once at a fight with a Gascon guard and then
at the siege of Arras in 1640. He never fully recovered from his
wounds and abandoned his military career in favour of philosophy.
He wrote bizarre stories of imaginary trips to the moon and sun.
In one such trip, he took off from the earth in an apparatus propelled
by fire-crackers.
In the 1650s Cyrano de Bergerac published two unsuccessful plays. His first was considered blasphemous, his second was "borrowed" in large chunks by Molire. Cyrano's death was as hapless as his life, he was killed by a plank of wood falling from a building in Paris.
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