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With its cobbled lanes, medieval lay-out, clock tower and trams, Berne surely scoops the prize as Switzerland’s most charming town. Few cities in the world have retained their past quite so successfully, and Berne’s is more than 500 years old. Stroll around the eastern part of the Unesco-protected Old Town, and it’s easy to believe you’re back in the 16th century, yet it’s here you’ll find the ‘longest-covered shopping promenade in the world’. Walk through the ultra-modern arcades and the music, food and shopping is undeniably 21st century. This is the nation’s capital, home to the Swiss parliament and federal authority. But despite this political status, Berne is tiny, with a population of just 130,000. And this gives it a lovely small-town feel, it’s also beautifully compact making it easy to spot the sights on foot. But if you fancy giving your feet a rest, you can enjoy the sights from a horse-drawn carriage at one of the city’s central squares. The Old Town is traffic-free, so many a happy hour can be spent café-hopping or exploring winding alleys. This is a city with a surprisingly big party appetite. If you visit in November you’ll coincide with the Zibelemärit (the oddly-named Onion Market), Berne’s major annual festival and an excuse for the entire town to let its hair down. Brave residents take a chilly dip in the River Aare the day before the town’s festivities, and on the day itself, the fourth Monday in November, run around the Spitalgasse throwing confetti, pulling party poppers and enjoying the food stalls and beer. Or plan to come for the Fasnacht carnival, a weekend of non-stop partying. From May onwards, the town is bedecked with flowers, (Berne was once voted Europe’s most floral city) making it gloriously colourful throughout the summer. And if you’re here in summer, why not join the locals for a dip in the river?
Strolling through Berne’s old town is magical whatever the time of year. Apart from the odd tram or car and the addition of shops signs, time could have stood still for the past five centuries. The imposing Zytglogge, Clock Tower, marks official Berne time and is the focal point of the old quarter. If you’re interested in art and history, there’s plenty to see, not least at the Kunstmuseum, where there are works by Picasso, Cézanne and Miró as well as changing exhibits, or visit the wonderful, late Gothic Münster with its unmistakeable feathery spire, the highest in the country. And then there’s Einstein. Even if you’ve no idea why his theory of relativity should have shaken up the world’s brains in 1905, it’s worth having a look at his apartment if only to see the sofa of the greatest thinker on the planet. If all that gives you a head-ache, stroll past Berne’s many ornamental fountains, beautiful works of art scattered all over town, some by Swiss artist Paul Klee whose work is celebrated in the new Museum Zentrum Paul Klee. Whether you’re on a romantic break or with a group for a stag or hen weekend, the old town groans with eating and drinking establishments, the broad Bärenplatz throngs with performers and market stalls, and is top choice for enjoying a cappuccino or beer in the sunshine. Nor is there a shortage of nightlife whether you’re after cutting-edge clubs, live rock, disco or a night at the theatre - book tickets ahead from the very helpful tourist office (see The Facts You Need) And then there are the views. Look up from the Old Town and the towering white peaks of the Alps line the horizon, look around, and it’s a sea of clustered roofs and medieval cobbles. Whether you’re here for the culture, gastronomy, nightlife, shopping or skiing, or just seeking beauty in a relaxing capital with breathtaking views, what can compete with Berne?
Start in the centre of the Old Town at the Zytglogge, clock tower, Berne’s first western city gateway, built in 1191 but lavishly embellished in 1770 with little mechanical figures of bears, cockerels and jesters. It’s the focal point of public transport and walking routes within the Old Town, so once you’ve got to grips with why Switzerland is known for clocks, head out along Kramgasse. It’s lined with Baroque façades stuck onto medieval houses. Have a look in number 49 where Albert Einstein lived and developed his theory of relativity in 1905.
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Berne has a number of top luxury hotels, but make your francs stretch further by staying at one of the many inexpensive historic Old Town properties. For relatively little you can have a wonderful couple of nights in a quiet room above cobbled streets just listening to the toll of the Münster’s bells. These older hotels are surprisingly quiet, scrupulously clean and have typically top-class Swiss standards. However, Berne is small and popular, so book ahead. The four-star Hotel Belle Epoque, +41 (0) 31 311 43 36, is an enchanting, art nouveau property, ideal for a romantic escape. The three-star Hotel Alpenblick, +41 (0) 31 335 66 66 features a lovely winter garden and terrace and, for convenience, a tram stops right outside the Hotel City am Bahnhof, +41 (0) 31 311 53 77. By road: Berne-Belp airport is nine kilometres (5.5 miles) southeast of the city. By bus: There are regular bus connections from the airport to Berne railway station and Belp railway station. A minibus called Airport Taxi meets all arrivals and shuttles to Berne’s centre. It costs around Swiss Fr.14. By taxi: Transfers by Blaser & Co. taxi firm, tel: +41 (0) 79 651 70 70, mobile: +41 (0) 31961 7484.
The centre is easily small enough to walk around and see the sights. Getting from the train station to the Bärengraben is about 15 minutes and takes you through the centre of the Old Town. For a real sense of romance, in summer take one of the horse-drawn carriages from one of the central squares. Buses and trams offer an efficient service. Most useful routes are tram number 9, for the Gurtenbahn station, bus number 12 for Länggasse or Zentrum Paul Klee and bus number 20 for Lorraine. Bus number 12 will also take you through the Old Town.
Mini-golf: In the centre of the city is the Heggidorn mini golf centre, if you’re looking for a good way to have fun for a few hours this is one of the best places to go. phone (+41 (0) 79 348 9316). Climbing: One of the largest climbing walls in Europe it spans 2300m2. whether you are a professional or a beginner this climbing centre will challenge you both physically and mentally. www.klettern-bern.ch Inline night: Every Monday night along a closed route in Berne hundreds of rollerskaters and inliners go around the city, for fitness, to make friends or just for fun. Beginning every Monday night from 19.00 from the Waisenhausplatz.
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The Zytglogge, Clock Tower, is the focal point of public transport and walking routes within the Old Town. Originally constructed in 1218 as the westernmost city gate, it was a fire in 1405 razed it after which it was rebuilt in stone. It has a great display of small mechanical figures, which strut around at four minutes before the hour. The intricate workings are explained (far more interesting than it sounds) with a one-hour guided tour June 1 - September 30 daily 1.30, October daily 14.30) inside the tower and you can wander through the rooms in the spire and gain a fabulous rooftop view. Kramgasse runs east from the main cobbled thoroughfare of the Old Town, lined with plenty of Baroque buildings. Number 49 is Einstein-Haus, until October 31 daily open from 10.00 – 19.00, from November 1 to December 17 Tuesday-Friday 10.00-17.00, Saturday 10.00-16.00, closed rest of December, visit www.einstein-bern.ch, the home of the great scientist and where he worked out his theory of relativity. Further along the street is the first of Berne’s many ornamental fountains. Postgasse, Gerechtigkeitsgasse and Junkerngasse are the Old Town’s most quaint and atmospheric streets to wander through. They all converge at Nydeggbrücke where Nydegg Castle was located. It was destroyed in the 13th century but is marked by Nydeggkirche. This church features parts of the massive castle foundations, but is worth a visit for the lovely courtyard and view of medieval houses clinging to the slopes. Berne’s late-Gothic Münster, Easter-October Tuesday-Saturday 10.00-17.00, Sunday 11.30-17.00; November-Easter Tuesday-Friday 10.00-noon and 14.00-16.00, Saturday until 17.00, Sunday 11.30-14.00) features the highest spire in Switzerland, its bells pealing out in an otherwise quiet part of the city. Undeniably awe-inspiring, parts of it date back to 1224. Outside, the cobbled Münsterplatz features imposing Baroque façades and a 1790 fountain showing Moses pointing to the second commandment (the ‘no other idols’ one). Take a look at the amazing Last Judgement sculpture before entering the church. Inside is outstanding, with an immense roof span, small chapels, stone bust carvings of the saints, Mary and Christ, wonderful stained glass, a beautiful nave and choir stalls and the tower. Don’t ignore the opportunity to climb all 100 metres up the tower, if you time it for the ringing of the bells, you’lr>
Just outside Berne is Emmental, famous for its cheese, but also beautiful, quintessentially-Swiss landscape, with rolling green hills dotted with grazing, brown cows chiming their bells. To explore this Schweizer Mittelland region, tel: +41 (0) 31 328 12 28 or visit website to book adventure packages. Hundreds of trails are mapped out for cycling or hiking, you can canoe on the Aare or even pan for gold. If you fancy something different, trek the Emmental from the back of a Ilama!
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If you’ve come with a friend on a shopping spree, need some pre-wedding pampering or perhaps fancy some mother-and-daughter quality time, what could be better than an excursion to the Wellness Oasis, exclusively for women? The DiWab Vital can accommodate a maximum of four ladies in one booking and offers a tempting treatment menu of thermal baths, infrared sauna, a flower waterbed and all manner of revitalising tonics to leave you invigorated and refreshed. |
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