A Tasty Suggestion
Creperie Blé Noir is part of a three restaurant chain in Brest, with restaurants on the harbour, and on the east and west sides of the town. These restaurants are more than you would expect from a simple crepes restaurant. With a well thought out menu, and quick unobtrusive service to match, you can easily have a three course meal here and be satisfied by the end of it.
Situated on a beautiful brook you can sit outside during the summer and relax with simple classic French food.
The menu has a wide range of options for you to choose from, but if nothing jumps out at you, they are more than happy for you to request fillings. Some of the highlights from the menu are the roasted shallots with cider and goats cheese for €7.20 as a main, or for dessert the caramel and white chocolate nougat crepe for €6.
Brest is packed with bistros and restaurants serving the best of fresh seafood and Bretagne cuisine. There’s a wide variety of good value eateries near the railway station as well as a number of bistros and bars just east from the place de la Liberté. If you’re looking for a lively atmosphere, Place Guérin is the hub of the student-dominated quartier St-Martin.
Tel: +33 (0) 298 07 57 40. www.blenoir.com
|
NOVEMBER 2008: The annual short film festival in Brest screens over 250 short films by young directors from all over Europe. Last year saw 36,000 visitors flood to the popular festival where 500 directors and producers showcased their work. For more information visit www.filmcourt.fr/
Back to top
|
|
SCROLL DOWN OR CLICK ON TOP LEFT NAVIGATION LIST
The P-B-P (Paris-Brest-Paris) Road Race
The oldest road bicycle race takes place every August. Starting in 1891 it was one of Frances premier bike races and was only exclusively for French riders for some time. Now it is open to all, and both professionals and amateurs take part, whether to race for the gold, or for fun. This is however a gruelling race and some may be better off watching from the towns en route. www.paris-brest-paris.org/EN
Brest’s retail experience
Situated on the corner of Rue Jean Jaurès, opposite the Printemps department store, a shopping arcade of 30 shops and boutiques has been opened on the site of a former department store.
Espace Jaures is a state-of-the-art ‘retail experience’ and cost €33 million to build. An ultra-modern glass entrance from the street takes shoppers to the stores, which are positioned according to merchandise. Clothes are on the first floor, leisure and household on the top. A footbridge links the centre to the Printemps department store.
Although Brest’s population is 156,000, Altarea, the complex’s French developer, is hoping to attract up to 450,000 shoppers from the surrounding area with the arrival of new brands to Brest’s high street.
Back to top
Perched on the westernmost tip of France, Brest is the ideal jumping-off point for exploring Brittany’s ceaselessly dramatic coastline. Neolithic monuments and ruined castles mingle with superb beaches, bays and ports as well as the tragic Nazi legacy from the Second World War.
Although hugely popular with families, Brittany has one of France’s most varied landscapes making it ideal for those wanting to dip into history, hike the breathtaking coastline or discover Breton culture.
Its northern side is rugged and rocky, the south, gentler with vast stretches of sand, while the cliffs to the west create some of Breton’s most savage scenery. A string of islands ring the coast each one with a unique personality. The closest to Brest is Ile d’Ouessant), France’s most westerly point, a peaceful oasis for hikers and naturalists and just two hours' ferry ride from Brest harbour. Its craggy rock formations rise up from rugged terrain, overrun with bright wildflowers and grazing sheep. Perfect for a day trip from the town.
The traditional costume of Breton women - a black dress and an ornate white lace coiffe (head-dress) can still be seen at folk festivals and some markets and the lilting local Brezhoneg language is well and truly alive in the pubs at Quimper, Carhaix and Morlaix.
The town of Brest itself is known as the ‘city of the sea’ and has long been loved by sailors, drawn to its magnificent natural harbour, the Rade de Brest, and reckoned to be about the finest in Europe.
Jutting out on the Finistère (Penn Ar Bed), it is France’s westernmost town, a point you’d expect to be barraged by Atlantic storms, but it is actually beautifully sheltered by the Léon landmass to the north and the Crozon peninsular to the south.
This was originally a Roman settlement, briefly owned by the English for 10 years until Richard II generously handed it back in 1394. It remained under French rule until 1941 when it was taken by the Germans, becoming the base for the Scharnhorst and Gneisenau battlecruisers. Much of Brest’s historic beauty was devastated during WW II when it was continually bombed to prevent the Germans using it as a submarine base. When it was liberated in 1944 the town was ruined almost beyond recognition. However Greater Brest was founded in 1945 and major reconstruction began in 1946 finishing in 1961 to reveal a modern town with one of the most up-to-the-minute attractions in France, the Océanopolis aquarium.
The town features a number of pleasant cafés, ideal for trying the Breton crêpe, the aristocrat of the pancake world. Delicate and thin, it comes with a huge choice of wonderful fillings and in Brittany, crêperies are reliable and cheap places to eat. While you’re here, also feast on the splendid seafood and accompany the meal with a white Muscadet from the south of Brittany.
Back to top
If you can, devote an entire day to exploring the three aquariums of the Océanopolis. The crab-shaped complex is about two kilometres east of Brest. Its three pavilions, Polar, Tropical and Temperate, contain some 42 aquaria filled with 3.7 million litres of seawater, 10,000 sea creatures which include seals and sharks as well as the more humble molluscs and seaweed with a total of 1,000 different species. The Polar Pavilion is particularly fun for kids with its polar bears and penguins. Everything’s very high-tech but with the addition of its 3-D cinema it can’t fail to entertain at any age.
Admission is €15.00 and it is open everyday except Mondays but is closed January 3-14.
Alternatively, spend the day in the town itself. There are plenty of daily markets to browse around in the morning (see Shopping below). Rue Jean Jaurès is prime high street shopping territory while Rue de Siam is the most vibrant street in the city. Pick from any of the good restaurants and bars that cluster at Port du Commerce for lunch and try some cotriade, traditional Breton sailor’s soup, followed by kouign amann, delicious, buttery cake.
After lunch, take your pick of one of the three main museums, Le Musée de la Marine with it unrivalled collection of model ships, Musée de la Tour Tanguy which features huge dioramas and models of Brest’s history or the Musée des Beaux-Arts, with its eclectic collection of art including works by Gaugin.
As sun sets, spend the evening mixing with local artists and poets enjoying a glass of lambig, the Breton equivalent of calvados, at La Place Guérin and reflect on the town’s remarkable history.
Back to top |
|
The vast majority of the town’s hotels are open throughout the year but, unusually for France, few feature restaurants. There are plenty of hotels within easy walking distance of the train station, around the central place de la Liberté. If you’re travelling to Brest in the summer, book two to three weeks ahead of July and August. There’s a good choice of two- and three-star town centre hotels at www.finisteretourisme.com
Among the eight three-star hotels available in Brest through My Extras are the Inter Hotel le Grand Abbatiale, Holiday Inn, Mercure Perros Guirec and the Gulf Stream where facilities include an outdoor swimming pool. Reservations on +44 (0) 871 900 8297. www.flybehotels.com
Back to top
By car: Explore the city and the countryside in comfort and style at great prices! Get the best deal by checking Flybe's partner Avis for the best available car hire rates at www.flybe.com/avis
By road: Brest Bretagne Airport is 11 kms from the city centre. Take the N12 autoroute west to the town. Contact Flybe’s car rental partner Avis for the best available car hire rates. www.flybe.com/avis
By bus or coach: There’s no rail service, but coaches run regularly and cost €4.60 one-way, €8.40 return with a journey time of 15 minutes.
By taxi: Expect to pay €15 by day, €20 at night.
Back to top
By bus: Buses run daily around the town from 6am to 10pm operated by Bibus, bus map and timetables from the tourist office or the Hôtel de Ville. Buy tickets on the bus, €1,10 each, €8,45 for a carnet of 10. Allô Taxis from 234 rue Jean Jaures, tel: +33 (0) 2 98 80 68 06. Buses (tickets from €2) leave from next to the train station. www.bibus.fr
By train: Trains from place du 19ème Régiment d’Infanterie. Tel: +33 (0) 2 98 31 51 72. Services are operated from Brest to Morlaix, Nantes, Paris, Quimper and Rennes. www.voyages-sncf.com
By ferry: Two ferry companies offer services to Ile d’Ouessant, buy tickets at the tourist office or at the port but reserve in advance for summer. Penn Ar Bed also sails to other islands, tel: +33 (0) 2 98 80 80 80. www.penn-ar-bed.fr
By air: Brest Bretagne airport website is www.brest.aeroport.fr
Back to top
Casino: Just 45 minutes away from Brest is one of the best casinos in the region. With over 80 slot machines, blackjack, poker and other card tables, the club is open 24/7 and is a guaranteed fun night out. Phone +33 (0) 298 696 341 for more information
Laser Game: A day of family fun can be had here. In the centre of the city you can play the fun laser shooting game for adults and children. www.lasergame.com
Ice Rink: The inkla stadium is home to one of the largest ice rinks in the area. With a range of activities, sports and events taking place you must check the free skate times otherwise you may find yourself in the middle of an ice hockey match! Skate times are subject to changes. www.rinkla-stadium.com
Windsurfing: Get taught by qualified professionals in the harbour on one of France’s best windsurfing coastlines. Suitable for those just trying it for the first time, or a seasoned surfer, these fun and useful courses take place every day. Call +33 (0) 298 025 336 for more information
Back to top
Brest is a naval port, which has its modern aspects whilst retaining its rich history. Property prices in this area vary enormously with coastal properties far more expensive, whereas houses in a more suburban area are much cheaper. The current price for a villa on the coast will cost around €300,000, whilst a townhouse will cost you around €400,000.
Renovation is a concept that is fading in this region, many people have already renovated barns, stables, etc., so now there are very few properties left to be refurbished.
Property prices in Brest have seen a substantial increase in the past five years. This is due to the investment from British buyers increasing the demand and inadvertently driving up the house prices. The result of this is that fewer hotels are booked up because a lot of the tourists now have their own property, but it has also stabilised the rapid increase in prices as people are deterred by the extreme prices of property in the area.
Still thinking of property investment? If you’re tempted, contact www.french-property.com
Back to top |
Océanopolis: The main tourist attraction is the Océanopolis, on the bay east of town, one of the best aquaria in France. Expect to spend a day here. Even though in peak season there are considerable queues it’s worth it, and there are plenty of snack bars and restaurants. Tel: +33 (0) 2 98 34 40 40, open April-August daily 09.00-18.00, September-March Tuesday-Saturday 10am-5pm, Sunday 10am-6pm. Entry €15.00, ages 4-17 €10.50, under fours free. It tells the story of Brittany’s marine life, mostly in huge tidal tanks. The futuristic complex consists of three aquaria and a 3-D cinema. A polar pavilion, housing the cinema, opens onto a penguin playground and the tropical pavilion, complete with coral reef, is fascinating for young and old. www.oceanopolis.com
Conservatoire Botanique de Brest: The beautiful conservatory, five minutes away, stretches through three kilometres of exotic plant life, bamboo groves and trickling streams.
Brest’s Château: The only significant building to escape the bombing downpour of the Second World War. In fact, over its 1700 years, the world’s oldest active military institution has seen off Roman, Breton, English, French and German attacks. Entry is through the Musée National de la Marine which takes up most of the sprawling fortress. Open April to mid-September daily 10am-6.30pm, mid-September to mid-December, February-March every day except Mondays10am-noon and 2-6pm. Entry €5.00.
History Museum: On the opposite bank of the River Penfled, Tour Tanguy is a history museum charting Brest before 1939. It’s open June-September daily 10am-noon and 2-7pm, October-May Wednesday and Thursday 2-5pm, Saturday and Sunday 2-6pm. Entry free.
Back to top
Once you’ve explored the old parts of Brest such as the square and streets overlooking the harbour and the impressive 15th century castle on the headland, which provides superb panoramic views of the city, consider a day trip across to the Ile d’Ouessant.
If you take the Penn Ar Bed (see Getting Around) it takes in two other islands, Sein and Molène. A free map is available from the Tourist Office, but as the terrain is relatively flat, you can see where you are by the large lighthouses. If you’re short of time, walk the north-west path to the Pointe de Pern; you’ll be at the westernmost point in Europe, the rock formations soaring from the sea are breathtaking.
In late August, Ouessant hosts the Salon International du Livre Insulaire, a half-week of literary conferences, exhibitions and meetings with writers. Tel: +33 (0) 2 98 90 33 32.
If you’re on a longer break, it’s worth hiring a car to discover more of Brittany’s rich heritage. Brittany basks in the warmth of the Gulf Stream year-round, causing the surrounding countryside to blaze with flowers and an abundance of birdlife from early spring to late autumn. Finistére’s interior is punctuated by wooded hills and farms, grassy knolls with beautiful views, twisting rivers and narrow valleys. Many of its verdant dunes are only 1,000 feet high, but are the remnants of the oldest mountain chain on earth.
Back to top
Nightlife centres around the Port de Commerce, the pont de Recouvrance at the end of rue de Siam as well as the streets near place de la Liberté. On Thursdays during the summer, the popular Jeudis du Port concerts take over the quayside with the sounds of Breton music, rock and jazz. Port de Commerce is open mid-July to late August, 7.30-midnight. Hot Latin beats, salsa and tapas is on offer at Casa Havana (+33 (0) 2 98 80 42 87) while locals pack Les Quatres Vents, (+33 (0) 2 98 44 42 84) quai de la Douane, rocking the boatside bar until 1am.
Back to top
Brest has long been an important naval base and industrial port and today boasts a naval academy, several schools of nautical science, a university and oceanographic research centre plus the headquarters of the French naval and oceanographic services.
Aside from this, Brest has thriving electrical, clothing, manufacturing, chemicals and paper, shipbuilding and naval supply industries. If you’re looking for business expansion, contact the Brest Chamber of Commerce.
www.cci-brest.fr
If you want a taste of local business, take a tour around some of the local factories organised by the tourist office, have a look at Breton beers (there are more than 20), buckwheat whisky, honey houses, potteries or the manufacture of clogs. As seaweed has become a major player in the cosmetic and spa industry, tours are now offered on its harvesting and production, from marine-life to body scrub. Details on all tours from www.finisteretourisme.com
Back to top
|
|
Eating out is a joy in Brest but aside from its wonderful shellfish and buckwheat pancakes there are plenty of local beverages worth a try. The brewing industry in Brittany goes back to the 17th century and thanks to renewed interest from young brewers, small scale production of artisan beers has survived. Look out for Coreff de Morlaix, Lancelot or the buckwheat beer Telenn Du.
Cider can be served sparkling, traditional, dry or sweet. The cider of Cornouaille was the first to be awarded Apellation d’Origine Contrôlée status but other quality names include Fouesnant, Hennebont or Val de Rance.
If you want to go back to military roots, chouchen (Breton for mead) is based on honey and water with added yeast, still widely served in pubs and bars. The local aperitif is Pommeau, a blend of sweet cider and apple brandy, featuring a flowery, sweet flavour.
If you prefer something drier, the province produces the invitingly dry white Muscadet, ideal with fish and seafood and usually very good value. This is nothing like the cloyingly sweet Muscatel wine.
Conveniently and in typical French style, the local wine is perfect with the local dishes, try it with the Breton fish soup cotriade or coquilles St Jacques, creamed scallops served in their shells.
Back to top
Photos © Office de Tourisme de Brest Metropole Oceane |
|
