If you haven’t visited Cardiff recently, be prepared for a glamorous surprise. It may only have had city status for 100 years, but that hasn’t stopped it transforming itself into one of the UK’s most dynamic towns, with an event calendar to rival any other European capital.
Hundreds of millions of pounds have been spent converting the old town docks into Cardiff Bay, a glittering waterside development for sports, spas, trendy wine-bars, and now a restaurant hotspot. Cardiff’s slick, new Millenium Stadium has also become a major draw, this year’s world sporting line-up is its best yet, with cup final football, World Cup rugby, rugby league matches and, for the first time, the XS07 extreme sports event.
In 2007, arts-lovers are offered Welsh National Opera at the Wales Millennium Centre, works by Leonardo Da Vinci at the National Museum or the Welsh Proms at St David’s Hall.
While for history buffs, Cardiff Castle dates back to the Romans or visit Llandaff Cathedral, thought to have been started in the sixth century but then rebuilt by the Normans in 1107. Llandaff is a pleasant suburb two miles northwest of the city centre, above the River Taff and just before reaching this suburb you’ll find Bute Park, with its superb arboretum featuring the remains of an old priory.
If you’re more in touch with the 21st century, come face-to-face with the daleks at the Doctor Who exhibition, the series was filmed in Cardiff and South Wales, the adult drama Torchwood is also set in modern-day Cardiff and the new Dr Who spin-off, Sarah Jane Investigates is also currently being shot here.
Cardiff has only been the capital of Wales since 1955, but since being showered with this accolade, has risen to its new status with relish, easily upstaging its rivals, Swansea, Mchynlleth or even the border town of Ludlow.
Beyond Cardiff’s suburbs is the dreamy 13th century fortress Castell Coch, to the west is the hugely popular National History Museum at St Fagans, both easily accessible by bus. If you can spend a little longer, the surrounding Vale of Glamorgan countryside is beautiful even though most people speed through it en route to Swansea and the west. Aside from the popular seaside resorts of Porthcawl and Barry, there are quiet towns and a glut of sandy beaches and crumbling castles to visit.
Before its coal-export industry took off, Swansea was little more than a fishing village. For years after the slump in coal mining, the town’s fortunes declined both culturally and commercially. But the city’s undergone an evolution with massive redevelopment over the past couple of decades. The enormous financial investment and location of the Welsh National Assembly here has boosted Cardiff’s position - it’s now the trendiest and most energetic city in the principality. Last year, Cardiff surprised many tourism chiefs by becoming the fastest-growing city-break destination in the UK.
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Begin at Cardiff Castle where you can discover 2,000 years of history right in the heart of the city. It boasts an impressive Roman wall and kids can climb the Norman keep. Guided tours are given of the fairytale interiors created in the 19th century for the Marquess of Bute. The picturesque gardens are also well worth a stroll.
Just outside the castle you can hop on a sightseeing bus for a 50 minute tour of the city. It’s ideal for getting your bearings and takes in all the fine civic buildings, the new Bay area and Millennium Stadium, with a good commentary in English.
After lunch if you’re armed with kids, get up close to cybermen, daleks and monsters at the Doctor Who Exhibition, or alternatively, visit the National Museum to feast your eyes on canvasses by Renoir, Monet and Cezanne, one of the largest Impressionist collections outside Paris.
For a special gift, visit the Victorian Indoor Market on St Mary Street, to find everything from Welsh cheeses to Indian fabrics. Castle Welsh Crafts displays all manner of souvenirs, jewellery and love spoons, and if you’re feeling flush, invest in some clognau, Welsh gold, the preferred choice for Royal wedding rings.
As dusk falls, wind down at Cardiff Bay feasting on the catch of the day and local Llanerch wine. End the day with a concert at St David’s Hall, if you’re lucky Catherine Jenkins, Bryn Terfel or one of their fellow compatriots will be centre stage.
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St David’s Hotel & Spa (+44 (0) 29 2045 4045) steals a prime position on the waterfront. This landmark hotel has become a celebrity magnet with the likes of Charlotte Church for its superb spa and leisure facilities. For quick access to the Bay’s attractions, check into Future Inn Cardiff Bay (+44 (0) 29 2048 7111), an upscale, modern hotel. Ibis Cardiff City Centre (+44 (0) 29 2064 9250) is an ideal budget hotel, two minutes from the pedestrian shopping area. For a stylish break, try the new boutique hotel, Jolyon’s (+44 (0) 29 2048) in Cardiff Bay with lovely rooms and cosy cellar bar. The four-star Royal Hotel, Mary Street, (+44 (0) 161 0807) is a comfortable, centrally located hotel, while Jury’s Cardiff, (+44 (0) 29 20 341441) is a large, plush, modern hotel, ideal for business. Just outside the city is the Vale Hotel Golf and Spa Resort +44 (0) 1443 667800, the perfect weekend retreat.
Reservations for all these hotels on +44 (0)871 900 8297. www.flybehotels.com
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By road: Cardiff International Airport is 12 miles west of Cardiff centre at Rhoose. Take the A4321 towards Penarth and into the city centre.
Contact Flybe’s car rental partner Avis for the best available car hire rates.
By bus: Service X91 operates between the city and airport hourly Monday to Saturday and every two hours on Sundays. Adult single fare, £3.70, child £2.60.
By train: Trains run every hour from Rhoose Cardiff International Station to Cardiff Central. Tel: +44 (0) 8457 484950.
By taxi: Checker Cars, the official taxi operator, is outside the arrivals hall, 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
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Cardiff is a compact city to walk around, the bay area is only 30 minutes stride from the Central Station. Beyond the centre, get about by bus. The extensive network is operated by Cardiff Bus which has information kiosks on Wood Street and Queen Street. The city is split into colour-coded zones, so prices depend on how far you travel. A City Rider ticket (about £4) gives a day’s unlimited travel around Cardiff and Penarth. Four night buses run until 3.30am on Friday and Saturday nights, but there are plenty of taxis.
Alternatively, try a walking tour of the city, tel: +44 (0) 29 2070 7882, www.cardiffbaytours.com
Take the waterbus which runs hourly between Mermaid Quay, Penarth and the city centre, tel: +44 (0) 7940/142409.
www.cardiffwaterbus.com
For more adventure, Bay Island Voyages, tel: +44 (0) 1446/420692 offers trips to Flat Holm Island or adrenalin-fuelled speed trips around the bay. www.bayisland.co.uk
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Cardiff Bay: For a fast, fun day out on the water, book a trip with Bay Island Voyages (+44 (0) 1446 420692). Zoom round Cardiff Bay on one of its powerful 12-seater boats or cruise around the coast on a two-hour Island Adventure trip. Take in Flatholm and Steepholm Islands with their World War 2 emplacements, see a wealth of different bird species and, if you’re lucky, Atlantic grey seals.
Vale of Glamorgan: Cardiff is the ideal jumping-off point for the rest of Wales. It’s only a short drive to the spectacular scenery of the Vale of Glamorgan, featuring the cream of Welsh beaches, beautiful cliff-top walks, ancient castles and some of the highest peaks in Southern Britain at the Brecon Beacons National Park. The South Wales Valleys once powered the world with coal, its important industrial past can be glimpsed at the Rhondda Heritage Park and the Big Pit National Coal Museum.
Castle Coch: On the edge of Cardiff is the fairytale Castle Coch, a ruined 13th century fortress that was transformed in the late 1870s. It’s set on a steep, wooded hillside and is easily reached on Bus 26A from central station. Highlights include a working portcullis and draw-bridge and its lavish interior is remarkable, with huge painted domes and panelling, it’s a medieval fantasy.
St Fagans: Four miles west of Cardiff’s centre is the village of St Fagans well worth visiting for its castle and museum. St Fagans Castle is a country house built on the ruins of a Norman castle, now furnished in 19th century style, the formal gardens and ponds have been restored to their original design.
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Cardiff Castle: Open daily Mar-Oct 9.30am-6pm, 9.30-5pm Nov-Feb. Entry to castle and grounds, adults £6.95, children £4.30. Visit the Roman wall, regimental museums, battlements, keep, clocktower and many other remnants of the city’s history. www.cardiffcastle.com
National Museum Cardiff: Tel: +44 (0) 29 2039 7951. Open daily 10am-5pm, free entry. One of the largest collections of Impressionist paintings outside Paris, works by Renoir, Monet and Cezanne. Best for kids is the Evolution of Wales gallery, packed with hi-tech gizmos, dinosaurs and early mammals feature strongly.
www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/cardiff
Wales Millenium Centre: Tel: +44 (0) 8700 40 2000. Presents outstanding international opera, ballet, modern dance and musicals. ‘Arts Sherpas’ run tours of the front and backstage areas and free live music performances held in the foyer each lunchtime. Adults £5, concessions £3. Show tickets from £5 to £35.
www.wmc.org.uk
Cardiff Bay: The run-down docklands area has been transformed into a huge freshwater lake for sailing and watersports, the glitzy five-star St David’s Hotel and Spa and Mermaid Quay, a restaurant and shopping hotspot.
Doctor Who Exhibition: Open 11am-8pm every day, adults £4, children £3. Get up close to cybermen and daleks, monsters, props and costumes from the latest series, most of which was filmed in Cardiff. www.doctorwhoexhibition.com
Techniquest, Cardiff Bay: Adults £6.90, children £4.80. More than 160 hands-on exhibits and puzzles for the whole family. Don’t miss the Universe in the Planentarium. www.tquest.org.uk
Llandaff Cathedral: Free entry. One of the oldest religious sites in the UK. Cathedral dates from 1107 and features impressive modern sculpture.
Bute Park: Lies between River Taff and Cardiff Castle. Beautiful arboretum, superb flowerbeds, foundations of old priory and stone circle. Ideal for riverbank walks.
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There is absolutely no shortage of places to go after dark in Cardiff. Whether you’re after opera, ballet, theatre or rock, funk and disco, the town heaves with possibilities. Many of the liveliest venues centre around St Mary Street. Walkabout, Edwards and Life stay open well into the early hours, all popular with students. For stylish cocktails, dim-sum and sushi, head to Mermaid Quay, Cardiff Bay, or for trendy wine bars check out Fat Cats or Tiger Tiger on Greyfriars Road. Evolution, Creation, Wish and Soda Bar are all top night-clubs. Classical music is at its best at WMC or St David’s Hall and Cardiff is generally included on big rock tours at the Millenium Stadium.
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Following the decline in heavy industry at the end of the 20th century, Cardiff’s economic fortunes have been steadily rising. Much of this growth has been spearheaded by the redevelopment of Cardiff Bay. Transforming the run-down dockland area into a major attraction has been one of the most successful regeneration projects in the UK. At a cost of £220 million, Cardiff now boasts Europe’s largest city centre waterfront.
Employment in the city has grown year on year and is now dominated by the service sector. Public administration, education and health are the town’s major employers. Cardiff is also Wales’ main financial and business centre and a major employer.
In line with the boom in business, house prices have also been climbing. The average cost of a house is now £182,123, expect to pay around £145,000 for a well-appointed flat.
For more information on doing business in the city, visit Cardiff Chamber of Commerce. www.cardiffchamber.co.uk
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For a town of its size, Cardiff has churned out a surprising number of celebrities. Everyone knows the belting voices of Shirley Bassey and Tom Jones hail from the town, but more recently the city has been producing a line-up of top actors. Rhys Ifans, who shot to fame and fortune as Spike in Notting Hill, now works alongside the likes of Meryl Streep, Julia Roberts and John Hurt. Most recently Cardiff-born Michael Sheen found stardom playing Tony Blair in The Queen. Welsh hunk Ioan Gruffudd may reside in LA now, but long before taking part in Titanic or landing the lead in TV’s Hornblower series, was raised by his school teacher parents in the Welsh capital.
Respected journalist and Radio 4 presenter John Humphries and comedian and all-round polymath Griff Rhys Jones were both born here. Cerys Matthews, front face of Catatonia and wild child of the ‘90s was born and bred in Cardiff and artsy rock ‘n’ roll band Super Furry Animals formed here in 1993.
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