A Tasty Suggestion
Le Chateau de Comtes de Challes is in the town of Challes les Eaux, just a short drive from Chambery. The restaurant is set in an ancient 15th century chateau, once owned by the Count of Challes. Also a hotel, the chateau is surrounded by beautiful grounds and scenery that can be seen from the restaurant.
The restaurant prides itself on picking only the best local and regional produce that it can get, including lots of freshwater river and lake fish, which are included on the menu.
The dishes range from €10 to €30, and dishes include beef poele with garlic and coriander sauce, and seasonal vegetables from €27 whilst all desserts are €10. This restaurant is perfect for an intimate evening out, and with great food at inexpensive prices it is definitely one to consider.
www.chateau-comtes-challes.federal-hotel.com
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DECEMBER: The Men and Womens World Cup downhill competitions take place on the glorious slopes in the Chambery valley. A great chance to see some of the best skiiers in the world take to the clopes. To find outmore visit www.chambery-tourisme.com
...and here are some more great things to do and see in and around Chambery...
JANUARY 2009: The Grand Ski trade exhibition takes place in the Parc des expositions de Chambery and is the place to find out about winter activities in Chambery. For further information go to www.eventseye.com/fairs/
trade_fair_event_11188.html
WEEKLY TUESDAY AND SATURDAY: The Chambery food market gives local producers a chance to sell their produce. Selling a huge range of food, wine, and local delicacies you are spoilt for choice. www.chambery-tourisme.com
DAILY: Tours of the Castle of the Dukes of Savoie, the Chateau of Chambery which is an integral part of the history of the Savoie
department. From the 13th century up to 1860 the House of The Savoy played a strategic role in the political balance of Europe. Today, the castle is owned by the state, houses the preLfecture and the General Council and can only be visited on guided
tours at fixed times.
www.chambery-tourisme.com
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World Championship Skiing Championships 2008
Val dfIsere and Chamonix, two of the best skiing locations near Chambery, are host to the Menfs super downhill combined World Championship skiing race in 2008. Chamonix, just a short drive East from Chambery, holds the first leg of the race on JANUARY 2 - 27 whilst Val dfIsere holds the second leg on FEBRUARY - 3. This race comprises many high-speed turns, huge vertical drops and is against the clock. Come and watch some of the best professionals compete for the world title. www.fis-ski.com/uk
The Chambéry Pass
The Chambéry Pass gives massively reduced entrance fees to museums and attractions. The pass can be purchased from the tourist office and gives savings for entry to the Fine Art Museum, Savoisien Museum, Les Charmettes, the Natural History Museum, Gallery Eureka, the small tourist train as well as guided tours of the town and castle. Get cut-price tariffs on the boats of Lac du Bourget and at the cinema. Bikes are available to rent at the Vélostation (outside the Railway station) and there are 50 km of cycling paths in and around Chambéry to take advantage of. For a further €1 you can travel on the Chambéry 24-hour bus network. It is valid from May 1 to October 31.
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Spectacularly placed in the narrowest part of the valley between the Bauges and the Chartreuse massifs, Chambéry, the capital of Francefs Savoy region, lies on the edge of the Alps.
With its stunning scenery and jaw-dropping landscapes, Chambéry is a magnet for skiers. The area is known as the kingdom of downhill skiing, snowboarding, telemarking, cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing and offers a feast of top-class resorts, classed among the best in the world.
The Rhône-Alpes region offers some 180 resorts in 15 mountain ranges with state-of-the-art winter sports facilities and equipment. This is home to some of the worldfs most beautiful and sought-after skiing locations - Chamonix-Mont Blanc, Courchevel, La Plagne, Val dfIsére, Trois Valleés and Megéve.
And itfs not just geared to ski experts and black run buffs. Families are well catered for with plenty of resorts featuring créches, nurseries and ski schools with nearby shops, chemists and doctors. Many have recently also introduced a Petits Montagnards label which guarantees children and family rates, child-friendly furniture, a lost child service and child-care and activity clubs from 0-12 year olds.
This is also year-round holiday resort. In summer, the region is awash with active holiday options. Of course itfs seventh heaven for climbers, but it's also perfect for mountain biking, glacier walking, extreme sports or more gentle family strolls for a mountain picnic. Summer is also the season for folk festivals, sound and light shows, baroque music and village fêtes.
The city of Chambéry itself is an important commercial centre and a great weekend break in its own right. It features a wonderfully-restored old town centre recalling some of its past splendour when the town was the capital of the Counts of Savoy back in 1232. Their former residence, le Chateau des Ducs de Savoie, dominates the old quarter, where cobbled streets are lined with grand, mediaeval architecture.
This is a bustling provincial town with a strong sense of its regional identity, itfs quite common to see Savoie Libre bumper stickers on city cars. Chambéryfs a splendid town too for simply ambling around, with a majestic castle as a backdrop, and itfs threaded with alleys and passageways overflowing with brasseries and cafés.
It's also an ideal starting point for a tour of the Parc des Bauges, a sparsely populated and little visited area of Alpine landscapes and bountiful wildlife that spreads north and east of the town.
If you're after a bit of pampering, Chambéry is just 13 km south of the popular spa resort Aix-les-Bains, famed for its thermal baths since the 18th century. Throw in a dose of pure Alpine air and you can't help coming home refreshed and invigorated.
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Start by dropping in at the Tourist Office on Boulevard de la Colonne to buy a €10 Chambéry pass, which will admit you to all the museums, the train ride and tours of the town and castle, (see What's new? below).
While Chambéry's Alpine surroundings are a skiersf paradise, the town itself offers plenty for lovers of art and culture. To get your bearings, board the small train that chugs around the pedestrianised medieval quarter at the Fontaine des Eléphants and youfll take in Chambéryfs most famous monument, built in 1838 in homage to General Comte de Boigne (see City Overview above) and key sights.
Then visit the Musée Saviosien which charts the townfs history from the Bronze Age onwards and includes some notable paintings. A passage leads from the square to the rue de la Croix-d'Or, lined with plenty of restaurants and coffee shops, ideal for lunch and visiting the Theatre Charles Dullin, named after the avant-garde director born here.
Take the narrow medieval lane, rue Basse du Chåteau which brings you out beneath the apse of the Ste Chapelle, the castle chapel. Although badly damaged by fire, the stained-glass is wonderful and you can see a full-size 19th century photo of the Turin Shroud which was originally held here. If it's a Saturday, youfll get the benefit of all 70 bells chiming from the monster-sized carillon.
Then head to the majestic white chateau itself and take a guided tour for an insight into the dukes of Savoy and what they did.
A short walk from the castle is the Musée des Beaux Arts where you can see Uccello's Portrait of a Young Man and some Titian cartoons.
Finish the day at Place St-Léger with its fountain and cafés and sample a glass of Savoy wine, choose from Bergeron, Apremont, Chignin or one of 20 others. If it's summer, street performers and musicians provide a free show.
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There are plenty of great value hotels dotted around the centre of the town. If youfre on a tight budget, head to the station area. But there are some wonderfully-furnished properties to enjoy for a special stay, including a converted fortress with trompe lfoeil deLcor. There are also cheerful-looking, mid-range double-fronted hotels on the main boulevards, serving classic Savoy fare from around €15 a head. For rural peace and outstanding views, stay in the village of Les Charmettes, Rousseau's old stomping ground.
In the city, the three-star Mercure Center and two-star Ballades, Best and Campanile ChambeLry are all available through www.flybehotels.com
Chambéry belongs to the national gBon Week-End en Villash offer. In eight hotels of the town (from two- to four-star hotels), you pay the first night and the second is free! Two nights for the price of one, during the weekends, all year round... It is a very good bargain worth knowing!
Ask information at Chambéry Tourist Office, tel: + 33 (0) 4 79 33 4247.
www.chambery-tourisme.com
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By car: Explore the city and the countryside in comfort and style at great prices! Get the best deal by checking Flybe's partner Avis for the best available car hire rates at www.flybe.com/avis
By road: Chambéry town centre is located 8km (5miles) from Chambéry-Savoie airport. More information at
www.chambery-airport.com
Contact Flybe's car rental partner Avis for the best available car hire rates. www.flybe.com/avis
By bus or coach: Bus transfers to the ski resorts. More information at www.altibus.com
By rail: There is no train link to the city centre, but a good network from Chambéry's rail station to all skiing resorts.
By taxi: Taxis gather outside the terminal building. The journey takes 15 minutes and costs €18-22 (£12.50 - £15.20).
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The gare SNCF is on rue Sommeiller, 500 metres north of the old town and the gare routie`re (tel: +33 (0) 4 79 69 11 88) is right outside, in Place de la Gare.
All the city buses stop at Boulevard de la Colonne, beside the tourist office (tel: +33 (0) 4 79 33 42 47). To visit Les Charmettes and acquaint yourself with Rousseau's summer home, book in advance a bus/taxi (Information Stac +33 (0) 4 79 68 67 00), except on Sundays and bank holidays.
If you want to explore around the Vanoise area, visit Maison du Parc at 135 rue Docteur-Juilland (+33 (0) 4 79 62 30 54). The staff are very helpful and provide maps and route information.
For boat trips on the beautiful Lac du Bourget, contact Bateaux du Lac du Bourget et du Haut-Rhone, tel: +33 (0) 4 79 88 92 09), www.gwel.com
If you really want to travel in style, helicopter flights from the lakeside airports provide magical views. Try Héli-Alpes tel: +33 (0) 4 50 27 35 45 or Hélijet, tel: +33 (0) 4 79 54 46 30.
For parachuting, tel: +33 (0) 4 79 54 42 93.
www.veloce-skydive.com/chambery
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Chambéry has plenty of nightlife with a host of bars for the après-ski crowd. Beer-drinkers will be awash with choice at the Café de L'Horlogerie, Place St Leger. There are several clubs on Care Curial, popular with the thirty-something crowd. There are a couple of cocktail bars on the avenue des Ducs de Savoie, and a number of cinemas, but most life centres around the bars and brasseries where you can sample one of the 20 Savoy wines or a local aperitif. Try a chambéryzette, a dry Vermouth and strawberry liquor. Other local strong drinks include the génépi á l'anciennne or the pe're la rocaille vulnéria.
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Ice Skating: The Parinoire de Busson Rond complex just on the outskirts of the city offers not only skating but swimming, shopping and eating facilities too. The ice skating rink is open daily to all and is available for hire. You can also hire skates there which is unusual for some French skate rinks. For more information phone +33 (0) 479 850 914
Bowling: The Bowling complex is fun for the whole family. It is equipped with all the latest bowling equipment such as barriers for the children, and shoes and gloves for hire. www.ibowling.fr
Swimming: The stade nautique de Chambéry outdoor swimming pools is open throughout the summer months and costs €2.50 for entry. It can keep the children entertained every day with inflatable sessions and plunge pools. For more information phone +33 (0) 479 694 966
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Gothic Chateau des Ducs de Savoie: Start with the imposing, white-stoned chateau, guided tours in July and August Monday to Saturday at 10.30 am, 14.30, 15.30 and 16.40, afternoons only on Sunday, daily at 14.30 in May, June and September, and 14.30 Saturdays, Sundays and bank holidays (except December 25 and January 1) from October to April, entrance €4 (£2.80). A magnificent structure, it was once the main home of the dukes of Savoy. Part of the complex includes the Sainte Chapelle, where the Turin shroud once lay and, although the shroud was eventually taken back to Turin, a full-size 19th century photograph remains here. The chapel was badly damaged by a 16th century fire, but the stained glass windows remain intact and are impressive. The chapel also contains the biggest carillon in Europe, with no fewer than 70 bells. Hear the full ensemble at 17.30 on the 1st and 3rd Saturdays of the month.
Fontaine des Eléphants: The town's most famous monument, on boulevard de la Colonne, a quirky structure erected in homage to the Comte de Boigne, an 18th century son of the town who amassed a fortune in India much of which he invested in Chambéry for town improvements.
Le Charmettes: Two km south of the town, is the former home of the 18th century philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau and his mistress, Mme de Warens, now a museum dedicated to his memory. Open everyday except Tuesdays and public holidays, April-September daily 10.00-noon and 14.00-18.00, October-March 10.00-noon and 14.00-16.30. Free admission. Late evening spectacle in July and August.
Musée Savoisien: Chronicles the townfs history with beautiful paintings including rare 13th century wall paintings. Open everyday except Tuesday, 10am-noon, 2-6pm, entrance €3.10 (£2).
Musée des Beaux Arts: Not far from the castle, mostly devoted to Italian artists, though pride of the collection is Ucellofs Portrait of a Young Man, partly free of charge, €3.10 (£2.0) for the whole museum .
Details on all attractions from Chambery Tourist Office, tel: + 33 (0) 4 79 33 4247, www.chambery-tourisme.com
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Lac d'Aiguebelette: Just west of Chambéry. This is a perfect introduction to Savoy's lakes as motor boats are banned, making it far more peaceful than some of the larger lakes. It's a great place if you want to swim, boat or row in summer.
Lac du Bourget: Just 13 km (8 miles) north of Chambéry and rather more dramatic is Lac du Bourget, Francés largest natural lake. A stunning stretch of water left over from the last ice age surrounded by spectacular mountains. The scenery has bewitched countless writers and poets over the years, with its sparkling blue water, white-peaked mountains and clear alpine skies. It prompted the French writer Balzac to enthuse: "Nowhere could one find such perfect concord between water, mountains, earth and sky".
Dent du Chat: A road from the resort of le Bourget-du-Lac leads up to Dent du Chat, the most distinctive peak overlooking the lake. For the best views, meander along the track to nearby Molard Noir and, if you enjoy walking, there's a magically beautiful wine route running along the western slope of the Mont del Charvaz.
Aix-les-Bains: The Lac du Bourget's main settlement is Aix-les-Bains. This has been one of France's premier spa towns since the 18th century. Itfs filled with elegant architecture recalling its glory days when wealthy Europeans stopped by to dip in the hot sulphurous waters, not least of whom was Queen Victoria who visited on several occasions under the name Countess of Balmoral.
Two major Roman monuments remain, the Arch of Campanus and the Temple of Diana, and at Thermes Nationaux, which specialises in rheumatism treatments, you can see the remnants of the Roman baths. Above this, a plush new spa has been opened for those seeking the latest in luxury beauty treatments at Thermes Chevalley.
Also on the hillside, the Musée Faure contains an unusual selection of Impressionist works plus an entire room of Rodin sculptures. At Aix's lakeshore, therefs a long beach with a line-up of boats for cruising, and a clutch of pretty restaurants.
Les Charmettes: A must for anyone visiting Chambéry, 2km from the townfs centre. Aside from being the country home of Chambéryfs most famous 18th century resident, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, itfs worth visiting for its lovely sloping orchards and open views of the mountains. Rousseau lived here with Madame de Warens from 1731-36, claiming it to be the happiest time of his life and where he developed his radical thinking. The house and garden are simple but very pretty.
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Chambéry's population of 60,900 is well served for employment. Some of France's major industrial firms are here, including Saint Gobain, Vétrotex and Péchiney. Beside the lake is a major technological business centre, Technolac, housing a number of innovative firms and research laboratories plus a state-of-the-art training institute.
Education is also well represented here with the 12,000-student Savoy University, a trade high school and a school of engineering.
The technological business centre has an excellent website, for business start-up advice in English, tel: +33 (0) 4 79 25 36 36. www.savoie-technolac.com
Because of its perfect position for winter sports, house prices have been rising, with more British snapping up bargain properties than ever before. Nevertheless, houses in Chambéry are still far better value than those in the UK. If youfre a real ski-fan, what could be better than your own serviced apartment within easy reach of the airport. A one-bed apartment with links to Mégeve ski resort is currently on offer for £85,900 with www.frenchentree.com
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Chambéry's position in the mountains has undoubtedly had an influence on its inhabitants. Its most famous monument, Fontaine des Eléphants is wildly extravagant and definitely off-scale, but huge fun. The four gtruncatedh elephants are placed in the shape of the much-revered Savoy flag and support a column shaped like a trunk, at the top of which stands General de Boigne.
The townfs other bizarre visual spectacle is its numerous trompe d'oeil artworks. Although originating in Italy, the technique was developed and refined in Chambéry in the 19th century and the town has taken it to heart, an example is visible from almost every street corner.
The best piece is at the Cathedrale St-Francois de Sales where 6,000 square metres is on-show to "deceive the eye".
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Photos © Office de Tourisme de Chambéry - J. Bouchayer |
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