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Dublin is now right up there with London, Paris, or Barcelona as one of Europe’s great short-break cities. Cheap air fares and a vibrant nightlife have made it a firm favourite with stag and hen parties, and tens of thousands of visitors flock there every weekend. But Dublin’s not just about hedonism. The cultural life of this capital city of the Republic of Ireland is very rich, and its other attractions, such as sports, shopping, seaside, and countryside, make it worth more than a weekend visit. Fun and culture go together, and are at the heart of the Irish lifestyle. Where else could you go on a guided Literary Pub Crawl, learning about the great writers while sampling what might have fuelled them? In the same vein, there is a Dublin Writers’ Museum, but also, an Irish Jewish Museum. Dublin welcomes all-comers; not for nothing is the statue of Molly Malone – the cockle and mussel vendor made famous in song – known as ‘the tart with the cart’! In this city of acerbic wit, the Spire of Dublin, a 120m high landmark unveiled in the heart of the city in 2002, was not going to escape comment. Standing in the middle of O'Connell Street just across from the famous GPO, this immensely tall, striking, modernist sculpture has had mixed reaction from Dubliners, but at least it has some virtue as a landmark. Equally divisive of popular opinion is the recent nation-wide ban of smoking in pubs and restaurants. Nowadays the ‘craic’ and chatting-up in traditional bars such as Mulligan’s or Davy Byrne’s tends to take place among the smokers gathered around the doorways or on the pavement, while the drinkers and diners inside enjoy a smoke-free environment. Temporarily divisive, maybe, but another sure sign that the historic city of Dublin is prepared to move with the times.
The Dublin City Tour (+353 (0) 1 873 4222), operating every 10 minutes from 09.30 and costing €12.50, is a hop-on, hop-off tour with 19 stops, that you can use all day to plan your sightseeing and join at any point. Be sure to include Trinity College for its historic artefacts and lovely gardens, and the Guinness Storehouse® to learn about and taste Ireland’s national drink. Located in the heart of the St James's Gate Brewery, which has been home to the black stuff since 1759, Guinness Storehouse® is Ireland's Number One Visitor Attraction and you simply cannot leave Dublin without having paid a visit. The massive seven-storey building, a former Guinness® fermentation plant, has been remodelled into the shape of a giant pint of Guinness®. A visit will teach you everything you ever wanted to know about this world famous beer, from how Guinness® is made to the ancient craft of Guinness® barrel making in the Cooperage. The highlight for many visitors is the Gravity bar. Here visitors receive a complimentary pint of Guinness® and can relax and enjoy the breathtaking 360-degree views across Dublin city. What's more, each year Guinness Storehouse® hosts a festival to celebrate Ireland's patron saint. The Guinness Storehouse® St Patrick's Festival takes place during St Patrick's Weekend and is a celebration of music, fun and of course....Guinness®. To avail of a 10% discount and skip the queue when you arrive at Guinness Storehouse® - book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com If pop music appeals, Dublin Tourism’s Rock’n’Stroll booklet will tell you where Bob Geldof, The Corrs, U2, Westlife and many others started. On hot days you can cool off in St Stephen’s Green, in Phoenix Park (get off at the stop for the zoo), or on a beach. before tackling the Temple Bar nightlife area, you might want to browse the shops on Grafton Street. Order a coffee and a pastry in that national institution, Bewley’s Oriental Café, 78-79 Grafton Street, and watch the locals nattering and networking. In nearby Duke Street, you have a choice of historic pubs: on one side, the Bailey will serve you a pint in lively surroundings; on the other Davy Byrne’s, where Brendan Behan used to hang out, is good for a reflective coffee and a Jameson’s. As the evening closes in, you’ll inevitably make your way to the pubs and cobbles of Temple Bar, where the Oliver St John Gogarty is an essential stop for a pint of Guinness and (almost) non-stop music.
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Hotels range from one to five stars, offering everything from budget beds close to the action to designer luxury and boutique hotels. Hotels carrying the Family Friendly symbol meet the particular needs of children, providing playgrounds, playroom, special menus, mealtimes, etc. Guesthouses offer an alternative to hotels, ranging from five-bedroom family houses, Georgian and Victorian residences, to larger, professionally serviced modern premises. They usually feature an informal atmosphere and personal attention. Outside Dublin, your choice of accommodation includes stately country houses, luxurious castles, farmhouses, and B&Bs. Dublin is very popular, so be sure to book your hotel or guesthouse well in advance of your trip. Reservations through Flybehotels on www.flybehotels.com
By car: Explore the city and the countryside in comfort and style at great prices! Get the best deal by checking Flybe's partner Avis for the best available car hire rates at www.flybe.com/avis By road: The airport is 10km (6 miles) north of the city centre, just off the N1 trunk road. Contact Flybe’s partner Avis for the best available car hire rates. www.flybe.com/avis By bus: Aircoach operates every 10-15 minutes, with 15 stops in the city centre and a single fare of €7. Dublin Bus operates the Airlink 747 service to the city centre, operating every 10-15 minutes and costing €5. Service 748 (half-hourly, €5) serves the main railway stations of Connolly and Heuston, and the main bus station. By taxi: A taxi between the airport and the city centre costs about €20. Allow half-an-hour’s travel time; more during rush-hours to be safe.
The best way to see Dublin is to walk. If you’re tired, or venturing further afield, the bus services are regular and cheap. Keep a good supply of coins as many routes are exact fare only. Travel passes are a good idea if you’re staying for a few days, and are obtainable at Dublin Bus, 59 O’Connell Street Upper, suburban and DART railway stations, and also newsagents displaying the Dublin Bus sign. Bus information is available on +353 (0) 1 873 4222. DART electric trains offer frequent services up the coast to Howth or down as far as Bray, in County Wicklow. The Dublin Pass visitor card enables free entry to over 30 of the city’s top attractions - including Dublin Castle - as well as discounts and offers at a selection of shops, restaurants and other service providers. Skipping the queues at major attractions and travelling free to Dublin city from the airport are other benefits of the pass which is available for 1, 2, 3 and 6 days for both adults and children. www.dublinpass.com Guinness Storehouse: This is the feature attraction in Dublin, a magnificent architectural structure, and the perfect complement to the beverage that is Ireland’s best-known beer. Through the seven floors visitors can see every step that is taken to make Guinness, from the brewing onwards, and at the end of the tour they are given a complimentary Guinness to enjoy with the best view of Dublin from the Gravity Bar on the seventh floor. For more tickets (standard tickets cost €14.00) Tel: + 353 1 408 4800. www.guinness-storehouse.com Dublin Zoo: In the past 200 years zoos have changed dramatically, instead of solely being a tourist attraction, they are now used for animal conservation and educating the public about endangered species. With over 30 acres of land, located in Phoenix Park, the zoo is a fantastic display, presenting various different primates, reptiles, cats, birds, endangered species, farm life, Arctic creatures and many more. With over 700 animals and various different plants on exhibit this zoo is guaranteed to entertain anyone. For booking plans www.dublinzoo.ie Ice-Skating: If you are looking for something different on your winter holiday in Dublin, why not try ice-skating? Smithfield on Ice is a full service indoor ice-skating rink, which is just a 15-minute walk away from The Temple Bar. You can also watch a ‘performance on ice’ where expert skaters perform plays such as Christmas Tale, Parade of Light, and the festival of Light Carols. People who choose not to skate can also go shopping in the local Christmas market, watch others skate, drink some coffee in the café, or take a tour of the local distillery. For any of these reasons, Smithfield on Ice is very much worth going to, on your own or with a group. Tel: +353 1 4487777. http://www.smithfieldonice.ie The Temple Bar: This is one of the oldest buildings in Dublin, a location which is well known for its long history. The bar itself has been known to have been around since the late 17th century. The Temple Bar is often used as a reference to an area of Dublin. The pub itself is a big attraction, however, there is also the Irish Film Institute, the Irish Photography Centre, the Temple Bar Music Centre, Temple Bar Gallery and Studio, the Arthouse Multimedia Centre, the Ark Children’s Multimedia Centre and the Irish film archive, all in the same area and all worth seeing themselves. www.tascq.ie Croke Park: This is the largest stadium in Ireland with a capacity of 82,500 people, and is primarily used by the Gaelic Athletic Association. Whilst in Ireland why not see one of their matches of Gaelic football or hurling, which are sports that bear great similarity to rugby. Fixtures are played roughly throughout the year and are well worth watching if you have not seen this type of sport before. Ticket prices may vary. www.gaa.ie Golf: When in Ireland why not enjoy one of the many golf courses in Dublin. There are over 50 golf courses in the area, including the most popular golf course in Dublin, Hollywood Lakes, a beautiful yet affordable course that is sure to please any standard of player. Tickets cost €35 - €45. Tel: + 353 1 843 3407. www.hollywoodlakesgolfclub.com 4x4: Dublin is perfectly located to access a wide range of day trips and excursions. The small villages and towns of the county offer visitors a charming insight into life in Ireland, while mountain walks, stately homes, and sandy beaches are all within half an hour of the city centre. For adventure, a 4X4 tour can be arranged by Vagabond. A three-day tour beginning in Dublin will take travellers west to County Galway and County Mayo to experience sights such as Galway Bay (for some fantastic Atlantic sunsets), a walk in Connemara's mountains, a Gaelic football match and a drive across the sand to an offshore island. www.vagabond-ireland.com DART: If you prefer to plan your own trips, DART electric trains offer frequent services up the coast to Howth or down to the celebrity hangouts of Dalkey or Killiney, taking 20 to 30 minutes. Stay on the DART heading south and it will take you to Bray, in County Wicklow, a seaside town that the kids should enjoy. Wicklow: A great place for walking, golf, and the beach at Brittas Bay. It’s rural Ireland at its best, but you’ll need a car to get around. Places to visit in Wicklow include Powerscourt House and Gardens, Mount Usher Gardens, and the Avondale Estate, home of the ‘Uncrowned King of Ireland’, Charles Stewart Parnell. Malahide Castle: North of Dublin, just beyond the reach of the DART, is Malahide Castle. Set on 100 hectares of parkland in the pretty seaside town of Malahide, it was both a fortress and a private home for nearly 800 years and is an interesting mix of architectural styles. The Talbot family lived here from 1185 to 1973, when the last Talbot died. The house is furnished with beautiful period furniture together with an extensive collection of Irish portrait paintings (+ 353 (0) 1 846 2184) www.malahidecastle.com Situated in the beautiful grounds surrounding Malahide Castle is the Fry Model Railway, a delightful collection of handmade models of Irish trains, which is a treat for railway enthusiasts, children and adults alike. Also located within the grounds of Malahide Castle is Tara's Palace - one of the world's most elaborate Dolls’ Houses (+353 (0) 1 846 3779). Other places to visit: Lusk Heritage Centre, Lusk: The Lusk Heritage Centre comprises a 9th-century round tower, a medieval belfry and a 19th-century church. The belfry now houses an exhibition on medieval churches of North County Dublin and also the magnificent 16th-century effigy tomb of Sir Christopher Barnewell and his wife Marion Sharl. Newbridge House and Traditional Farm, Donabate: This delightful 18th-century manor is set on 140 hectares of parkland, 18km north of the city centre, and has one of the finest Georgian interiors in Ireland. Each room open to the public has its own style of antique furniture, and the house appears more or less as it did 150 years ago. It is surrounded by a dairy, estate worker's house, carpenter's shop and a blacksmith's forge; all displaying 19th-century tools and implements, plus a 12-hectare traditional farm, complete with farmyard animals. Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre, Castle Street, Dalkey: Explore Goat Castle with its Murder hole, bartizan, garderobe, machicolations, and battlements. View models of medieval Dalkey, the Atmospheric and Funicular railways and the much-loved trams. Visit 10th-century St. Begnet's Church and graveyard. Explore the folklore, customs and literary history of Dalkey, including the Exhibition of James Joyce's Dalkey connections.
Literary heritage: Dublin is special, a place where tradition and culture have blended over hundreds of years to create a unique atmosphere. It is renowned worldwide as a city of writers and literature, home or refuge to names such as James Joyce, George Bernard Shaw, Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, W.B.Yeats, Brendan Behan, Samuel Beckett, Sean O’Casey, and Flann O’Brien. This rich literary heritage is celebrated at the Dublin Writers Museum, 18 Parnell Square. Combined tickets are available for this and the James Joyce Centre, at 35 North Great George’s Street, and the Shaw Birthplace, at 33 Synge Street. Also covered by the combined tickets are Malahide Castle and Fry model railway; both of which are based out in Malahide. Other places of interest include: Dublin Castle: This is the heart of historic Dublin. In fact the city gets its name from the Black Pool - Dubh Linn - which was on the site of the present Castle garden. The Castle stands on the ridge on a strategic site at the junction of the River Liffey and its tributary the Poddle; the original fortification may have been an early Gaelic Ring Fort. Later a Viking fortress stood on this site. The south range houses the magnificent State Apartments, which, along with the Undercroft and Chapel Royal, are open to visitors. Dublinia: This award-winning exhibition on St Michael’s Hill recreates the sights and sounds of the medieval city to offer visitors a fascinating glimpse of Dublin 800 years ago. Walk through the reconstructed streets of the old city, visit the Merchant's House, and board a ship at Wood Quay. National Museum of Ireland: This museum on Kildare Street is home to a collection of the finest ancient gold jewellery in Europe, including the ornate gold Tara Brooch and Ardagh Chalice from the 8th century, plus other Celtic and Viking artefacts, from altar cups to axe-heads. Some relics and even film footage from the 1916 Easter Rising are on display. Newman House, University College Dublin: Newman House on St Stephen’s Green is made up of two of the finest Georgian buildings in Dublin. Famous for their spectacular plaster decoration, both houses also have magnificent 18th-century interiors. Christ Church Cathedral: Founded in 1172 on the site of a Viking church by Archbishop O’Toole and Richard de Clare (Strongbow), but now looks more Victorian than medieval. Famous for its choristers, and one of the places to celebrate New Year with bell-ringing and Auld Lang Syne. Saint Patrick's Cathedral: Living Stones, the cathedral's permanent exhibition, celebrates the place of this cathedral, founded in 1191, in the life of the city. The writer and satirist Jonathan Swift was Dean of Saint Patrick's 1713-1747. Handel's Messiah received one of its first performances in 1742 sung by the combined choir of Saint Patrick's and Christ Church. St Michan’s Church 7: Founded in 1095, St. Michan's Church was, for nearly 600 years, the only church on the north side of Dublin city. The peculiar dry conditions in the vaults has resulted in the mummification of the corpses and visitors may see the result of this on their guided tour. Also on display in the vaults are the death mask of Wolfe Tone and the coffins of the 1798 rebels John and Henry Sheares. St. Mary's Abbey: St Mary’s in Meetinghouse Lane, off Capel Street and Mary's Abbey Street, is one of Dublin's best-kept medieval secrets. Two rooms, the Chapter House and the Slype, remain from what was once the wealthiest Cistercian abbey in Ireland. Oscar Wilde House: The Wilde family took up residence in Number One, Merrion Square, in 1855, and Oscar Wilde lived here until 1876. This elegant square and public park retains much of its Georgian character. Plaques on the walls of the mansions recall famous occupants, for example Daniel O'Connell and W.B.Yeats. The Wilde house is an excellent example of Georgian architecture. American College Dublin took it over in January 1994 and the ground and first floors of the house are now open for guided tours. Trinity College Dublin: Trinity College is the oldest university in Ireland. Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I, the College retains some of its ancient seclusion of cobbled squares, gardens, and parks on its 16-hectare site. The College owns great treasures, including the Book of Kells, a 9th-century illuminated manuscript, the Books of Durrow and Armagh, and an early Irish harp. These are displayed in the Treasury and the Long Room, which houses over 200,000 of Trinity's oldest books.
The GPO Building: This is situated prominently in the middle of O'Connell Street, opposite the even more prominent landmark, the Spire. It is the headquarters building for An Post, the Irish Postal Service. The foundation stone was laid in 1814 and this was the main stronghold of the Irish Volunteers in the 1916 Rising. Glasnevin Cemetery, Finglas Road: A tour visits the final resting-place of Daniel O'Connell, Ireland's 'Liberator' from the penal laws; Michael Collins, freedom fighter and Minister for Finance in the first Dail; Eamon DeValera, 1916 veteran, seven times Taoiseach, twice President; Charles Stewart Parnell, the 'Uncrowned King of Ireland', agitator for Home Rule and leader of the Irish Parliamentary Party in the 1880s; Maud Gonne Mac Bride, revolutionary, muse to W.B. Yeats and mother of Sean McBride; Countess Marcievicz, 1916 veteran, lifelong republican; Brendan Behan, writer, republican, Dublin wit; and many of the other men and women who have shaped Ireland's history. The Ha'penny Bridge: This is Dublin's oldest pedestrian crossing over the River Liffey. It was erected in 1816 as the Wellington Bridge and it acquired its better-known nickname from the halfpenny toll levied on all users of the bridge up to 1919. Kilmainham Gaol: Kilmainham Gaol on Inchicore Road gives the visitor a dramatic insight into what it was like to have been confined here between 1796 when it opened and 1924 when it closed. Leaders of the rebellions of 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867, and 1916 were detained here. Such names as Robert Emmet, Charles Stewart Parnell, leaders of the 1916 Rising, and DeValera are associated with the gaol. The Abbey Theatre (+353 (0)1 878 7222) is where many of Ireland’s best new plays are premiered, while the National Concert Hall has weekly performances by the National Symphony Orchestra plus traditional Irish music and jazz (+353 (0)1 475 1572). The guided Dublin Literary Pub Crawl (+353 (0) 1 670 5602) or Musical Pub Crawl (+353 (0) 1 478 0193) are especially good if you’re on your own. The Vaults, in Harbourmaster Place (+353 (0) 1 605 4700), is one of the top night-spots. A survey carried out this year showed that Dublin was the 16th most expensive city to live in worldwide, based on the cost of property, the cost of travel, food and other expenses. In Ireland, Dublin remains by far the most expensive city to live. Dublin property prices have also been identified as the 16th most expensive in the world, averaging £357,000 per property. Property prices in Dublin are now around 18.2 times the average annual salary in Ireland, which is only topped by the Netherlands, where property costs more than 19 times average annual salaries.
The Republic of Ireland has been booming now for over a decade, and gone are the days when you could pick up a country cottage for a song. Many foreign artists did just that, benefiting from the tax-free status offered to artists living in Eire. This tax-free status is now under review. EU money has helped to rebuild the infrastructure, and the roads, for example, are now much improved. This makes it possible to get from east coast to west in around three to four hours. The two airports, at Shannon and Dublin, make travelling anywhere in Eire dead easy, as nowhere is more than a few hour’s drive. There are a few pockets still remaining where Gaelic is the everyday language, mainly in the south and west, but English is generally spoken, and often with a verve and wit that shames the English. Many new businesses started up in the 1980s, many in the computer industry, and the prospects for young people entering the job market are good. The mystical nationalist poet W.B.Yeats would probably disapprove of the new generation of Irish businessmen and women ‘fumbling in the greasy till, and adding the halfpence to the pence’; but you don’t hear this new, prosperous generation complaining.
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Dubliners will avoid Temple Bar like the plague, knowing that its claim to tradition is totally spurious. Fifteen years ago it was a slum, and it was only the rise of ‘The Irish Pub’ as a brand, bringing hordes of tourists to look for the original, that engineered its transformation into Ye Olde Dublin Nightlife Centre. However, most Dubliners are not averse to a pint in a place like Mulligans, in Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2. Mulligans is composed of an abundance of Victorian mahogany and well-used counter tops, and many divides, screens, and dark corners make it ideal for intimacy. This is a true city centre pub that has managed to maintain its Old World feel. And the Guinness is worth waiting for. Dubliners are also likely to use the DART service, whose cheapness and efficiency are well-kept secrets. It’s the way to get to Dun Laoghaire, to meet visitors off the ferry, and to get to the famous rugby stadium at Lansdowne Road. It’ll take you to a variety of sandy beaches on its way north or south, and the sea views are great as it hugs the coast. Dubliners starting to feel the pace in the city take it south all the way to Bray in County Wicklow, where rural Ireland begins and time stands still. |
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