A Tasty Suggestion
Superstar chef Michael Caines was born and bred in Exeter, so it was natural that his latest empire-building venture, Michael Caines at ABode Exeter (+44 (0)871 426 4614), should begin here. The ABode group of boutique hotels stems from his partnership with the current owner of Gidleigh Park, Andrew Brownsword (AB, geddit?), and it's going nationwide: there are already branches in Glasgow and Canterbury, with Manchester and Chester in the pipeline. www.michaelcaines.com
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JANUARY 2009: The Exeter Winter Ales Festival is held at the university where 35 specially selected winter ales are available on tap. Food and other entertainment is on all evening. Go to www.camra.org.uk for more information.
…and there are more great things to do and see in and around Exeter…
AUGUST 17-19: The 4th Hayne Barton Jazz Festival. A 500-seat marquee covered concert site set in the glorious Devon countryside The Hayne Barton Jazz Festival offers a unique setting to hear a stunning line featuring British Women in Jazz. Artistes include Jackie Dankworth, Lianne Carroll, Anita Wardell plus Digby Fairweather, Alan Barnes, John Etheridge, Julian Stringle, Karen Sharp, Craig Milverton, Bruce Adams. Prices from £20-65 for weekend pass.
Friday night 19.30-23.00 Saturday allday 11.00-23.00 Sunday allday 10.30-22.30. Hayne Barton Farm, Hill Lane, Whitestone, nr Exeter, Devon EX4 2JN. www.wherecanwego.com
NOVEMBER 2-18: Exeter Autumn Festival. First staged in 2004 the Festival is a fun-packed two weeks that is now an important part of Exeter's year-round calendar of events. The aim of this fortnight is to promote a programme of theatre, music, dance and creative activity for everyone and also to celebrate the creative talent of the city. www.exeter.gov.uk
WEEKLY, EVERY THURSDAY: Exeter Farmers Market - when the countryside comes to the city! This small but vibrant market offers a wide selection of local produce from different cheeses to bread and cakes, to meats, pate and vegetables, chocolate, chillies, apple juice, flowers, plants and more!
Every Thursday throughout the year. 09.00 to 14.00.
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Princesshay nears completion
Princesshay, Exeter's new £235m development, is scheduled for completion by autumn 2007. Bedford Street is now open and once the entire development is complete will comprise of a flagship department store; new shops, restaurants, Tourist Information Centre and Heritage Centre; landscaped open spaces, which will open up new and fresh views of the cathedral, the medieval Almshouses and the City Wall; a new car park, and more pedestrianised areas.
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Once a thriving international port, Exeter’s historic quayside is now a major draw for sightseeing, boat trips, cycling, and canoeing. The Cathedral Church of St Peter is one of the UK’s finest examples of decorated Gothic work. Exeter is a beautiful city, retaining many historical gems despite being bombed during the Second World War. The city centre boasts the Guildhall, one of England’s oldest municipal buildings, dating from 1330, and attractive public gardens like Rougemont and Northernhay Gardens, the oldest in the country.
Nearby, the north-coast beaches of Devon and Cornwall are a big draw to surfers who come from a wide area. Surf culture has spread to Exeter which now has five surf shops in the city and was the originator of the Surf’s Up museum exhibition that is now currently on tour. Apart from some lovely traditional pubs, there are lots of clubs, and, whatever your age, there is something going on every day of the week. Summer is festival time, and Exeter is a good base from which to sally out and catch the best of the music and the party scene.
The surrounding countryside is superb, with the wildernesses of Exmoor to the north, and Dartmoor much closer to the south. These provide opportunities to enjoy the great outdoors, from walking to cycling, horse-riding to birdwatching, golf to clay-pigeon shooting. Because of its agricultural heritage, there is good local produce available, and this is increasingly finding its way - stylishly prepared - onto the tables of the pubs and restaurants in the region.
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You could try one of the free Red Coat Guided Walks, most of which start from the Royal Clarence Hotel (+44 (0)1392 223638). If you prefer to explore for yourself, start at Exeter’s Quayside with a stroll, a coffee, and a browse in the antiques and craft shops. In the summer, you can hire boats and bikes to explore further downstream. From the Quays, make your way up to the cathedral. This has many fascinating features including the magnificent vaulted ceiling, the minstrels’ gallery, the Bishop’s Throne, and the 15th-century astronomical clock. Cathedral Close is an oasis in the city centre in the shadow of the cathedral. Here you can sit and admire the architecture, have a picnic on Cathedral Green, watch the passers-by or shop in period buildings.
If you’re feeling flush, you can eat lunch in Michael Caines’ restaurant in the Royal Clarence Hotel, Cathedral Yard. If you’re not, try the new Blue Fish Brasserie in Queen Street. This is a Georgian building lovingly restored and refurbished, and has a two-course lunch menu for £12.50. There are good quality cafes too, like The Boston Tea Party in Queen Street or the newly opened vegan restaurant, Plant, in Cathedral Yard where fresh, organic produce is the order of the day.
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After lunch, you can head up to Rougemont and Northernhay Gardens for a snooze in the sunshine, or a brisk walk to aid the digestion, depending on your temperament. After that you have another choice: shopping in the High Street, Gandy Street or Guildhall Shopping Centre; or visiting the Royal Albert Memorial Museum. Whichever you do, try not to miss the Guildhall itself, which is the oldest municipal building in Britain, and Parliament Street, which, at 62.5cm wide, lays claim to be the narrowest street anywhere in Europe.
As you pass down Fore Street you will pass Tuckers Hall on your right. This is the only surviving medieval guild in Exeter. If you turn left down West Street, you will find your way down to the Quay again. The picturesque 17th century Prospect Inn, overlooking the River Exe, is a good place for a drink. You’re now just a short hop away from the Café Paradiso at the Hotel Barcelona on Magdalen Street. This hotel with Gaudi-inspired décor has been created out of the former eye hospital. The large glass-walled restaurant looks out over the hotel gardens, and is excellent for dinner on a summer’s evening. If you have any remaining energy, most of Exeter’s liveliest clubs are back down on the Quay.
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There is a very good standard of accommodation in and around Exeter with a range to suit all pockets and requirements. From good quality bed and breakfast through to boutique hotels and four-star quality hotels there will be a welcome in and around Exeter. Book in advance if you are planning a special trip.
The centrally-located four-star Thistle Exeter is recently refurbished and close to many local attractions and activities. Budget options include St Andrews Hotel. In Plymouth, the Plymouth Hoe Moat House is one of that city's best four-star hotels. Reservations on +44 (0)871 9008297 or www.flybehotels.com Back to top
By car: Explore the city and the countryside in comfort and style at great prices! Get the best deal by checking Flybe's partner Avis for the best available car hire rates at www.flybe.com/avis
By road: Just 8 km (5 miles) from the airport, the A30 goes right into the city centre. Contact Flybe’s partner Avis for the best available car hire rates.
By bus: Route 56 operates Mondays to Saturdays.
By taxi: Available outside the airport terminal.
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Since most of the railways of Devon and Cornwall were closed down in the 1960s, it has become almost impossible to explore the West Country except by car. However, in summer, the roads do become busier with holidaymakers. Many Devon lanes are narrow so, if you value your car and your health, slow down, chill and just enjoy the countryside.
This is good cycling country, though a bit hilly, and using two wheels ensures that you will have time to appreciate the countryside. Hire bikes from Saddles & Paddles, 4 King’s Wharf, The Quay (+44 (0)1392 424241. For cycle routes around Exeter visit www.sustrans.org.uk
www.saddlepaddle.co.uk
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There are a host of good-quality leisure centres and sporting facilities in Exeter, catering for all ages and all levels. Facilities are provided for use by the public and by clubs, including sports centres, running tracks, indoor bowling greens, a petanque terrain, a golf course and a driving range, swimming pools, sports pitches and an artificial turf pitch.
Canoeing, sailing, windsurfing, caving, climbing and orienteering: Head to Haven Banks Outdoor Education Centre, which is situated on the canal and specialises in activity-based courses for all ages and abilities. www.haven-banks.co.uk
Fishing: For budding fisherman and women, free coarse fishing is available on the Exeter Canal between the Basin and Double Locks. There is also salmon to be caught in Exeter City Council’s stretch of the River Exe, which is approximately 600 metres in length within the City boundary. Permits have to be bought for both. www.exeter.gov.uk
Bowling: There are five bowling greens across Exeter – St Thomas Bowling Club, Princes Gardens Bowling Club, Belmont Bowling Club, Whipton Bowling Club and Heavitree Bowling Club.
Tennis: Tennis is free on all four of the city council’s tennis courts. Heavitree Pleasure Ground, Cowick Barton, King George V and Topsham.
Golf: Try the Northbrook Golf Course, a challenging 18-hole par three course, suited to both beginners and children, and experienced golfers (+44 (0)1392 667 010).
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Exeter is a popular residential location, which has been boosted by new companies relocating into the area in recent years. Currently on offer are new two- and three-bedroom houses in Kings Heath ranging from £172,500 to £233,950; a unique city centre property, believed to date from the 15th century in a wonderful location for about £314,000; and, on the outskirts, a fantastic 5-bedroom equestrian property, set in approximately 1.75 acres for just under £800,000.
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The Cathedral Church of St Peter: This is the city’s major landmark. Dating back to the 13th century, it has a 91m long Gothic vaulted ceiling, the longest in the world, and a 14th century minstrels’ gallery. www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk
The Guildhall: Dating from 1330, this is the oldest municipal building in the country still in use. It is open to visitors on weekdays, official functions permitting (+44 (0)1392 265500).
Mol’s Coffee House: This map shop in Cathedral Close was patronised in a former life by Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake.
Quay House Visitor Centre: Here you can see displays about the historical development of Exeter (+44 (0)1392 265213). Also on the Quay is the Exeter Crafts Guild (+44(0)1392 214332 www.exetercraftsguild.com) and a number of antiques shops.
The Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery: This award-winning (free) museum is well worth a visit. For children, this is an excellent place to learn about Exeter’s Roman origins or Egyptian mummies. The art collection includes paintings by Turner and Reynolds and there are frequent visiting exhibitions. Ring (+44 (0)1392 665858) or check out the www.exeter.gov.uk
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After dark, the Quayside area comes alive as the host to clubs and riverside pubs. Boxes, Warehouse, Volts, and Hothouse are all within 200m of each other on the Quay. Other clubs worth trying in Exeter are Timepiece (+44 (0)1392 493096), which has regular salsa nights, Arena, and (for those who like to live dangerously) Club Rococo. The clubs The Hub and Havana (+44 (0)1392 498181) both have comedy nights on Sundays. Exeter is the drama centre of Devon, with the Exeter Phoenix Theatre, the Northcott Theatre (+44 (0) 1392 493493), and the new Theatre Upstairs at the Globe Inn, Clifton Road.
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For a shopping excursion with a difference, visit the picturesque town of Topsham, set on the banks of the River Exe. The town's intriguing alleyways and independent boutiques are an open invitation to browsing and finding that perfect souvenir of your visit.
Exeter is the gateway to the English Riviera centred on the sun-filled resort of Torquay. Also nearby is the family-friendly coastal town of Exmouth, a 25-minute train ride away from Exeter. Visitors enjoy 3km (2 miles) of golden sandy beaches and there are plenty of attractions and entertainment. Exmouth marks the beginning of England's only natural World Heritage Site: the East Devon Coast from Exmouth to Dorset. A coastal cruise is recommended.
Head southwest to Dartmoor for some fresh air (see An Insider’s Perspective). Golfers will not be disappointed with the Nigel Mansell-owned Woodbury Park golf course and hotel about half an hour to the northeast of Exeter. www.woodburypark.co.uk
Tuckers Maltings in Newton Abbot offers the chance to try out some West Country ales in a Victorian malthouse and to see how they are made (+44 (0) 1626 334 734).
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Devon and Cornwall between them take nearly 10% of the UK tourism market, and this percentage has been increasing over the last four years. The market for short breaks has been improving, and the West Country, with its good road and rail links, and expanding airport at Exeter, has been benefiting from this. Attractions such as the phenomenally successful Eden Project and the fabulous stately homes and gardens in the area all help to bring in the tourists.
With tourism and leisure in a healthy state, the West Country has managed to shake off its old-fashioned image of having nothing to offer except clotted cream and cider and has become trendy as a place to live. Foodies now flock to artist Damien Hirst’s restaurant at Ilfracombe and to TV chef Rick Stein’s at Padstow.
Exeter, as the county town of Devon, is in a good position to take advantage of all this interest and activity. A growing centre for technology and communication businesses (the Met Office relocated to Exeter Business Park in 2003), the city also recognises the value that tourism plays. Exeter is making great strides in improving shopping and tourist facilities.
‘With a touch of buzzy, big city atmosphere, a large student population and a thriving arts scene, Exeter is one of the liveliest cities in the southwest.’ - The Lonely Planet 2005
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Exeter is only about half an hour from Dartmoor, one of the great wildernesses of Britain. This is popular with the locals, some of whom enjoy ‘letter boxing’ (ask when you get there). To spend a few hours up on the moor, walking through the heather, marvelling at the huge standing stones set in gravity-defying piles, is the best way to forget all your worries. Then to find a pretty village with an old pub serving a decent lunch and some local ales tops it off nicely.
A good day out on Dartmoor would see you take the B3212 out of Exeter towards Moretonhampstead. The road itself is a delightful, forested country drive, ending quite suddenly as you come into Moretonhampstead, where there are some wonderful arcaded 16th-century almshouses on the right. Turn right at the awkward crossroads and you’re heading for the extraordinary Castle Drogo at Drewsteignton, built by Sir Edwin Lutyens and completed in 1930. From here you can cross the A382 and head for Chagford, one of the prettiest Dartmoor villages, with its beautifully ornate Market House, the Three Crowns pub, and a general store that appears to take up most of the main street and sells everything you could possibly need.
But you’ve come for a walk on the moors and that’s where you’re headed now, back towards the B3212 and then on to North Bovey. This is another pretty village, almost untouched by time, with a 13th-century thatched pub, The Ring of Bells, nestling at one corner of the village green. As one literary drinker put it: ‘To drink a pint at The Ring of Bells is to taste Arcadia in this life.’ The food’s pretty good too, particularly the venison, so load up before you set out across the moors. www.ringofbellsinn.com
Just down the road (and here you’ll have to refer to local maps, as it’s mostly winding single track roads from now on), you have a choice of Hay Tor or Hound Tor. The heroes among you will park at Hay Tor and walk all the way to Hound Tor, where the remains of a medieval village can be seen. The views of Dartmoor are stunning but remember that the weather on Dartmoor can be changeable so take your map, compass and appropriate clothing with you when walking on the moor. Just 6km up the road is Widecombe-in-the-Moor, mentioned in the famous song Widecombe Fair. This is where all the tourists go. A better spot for a refreshing pint before making your way back to Exeter is The Royal Oak at Ilsington, near Hay Tor. Back to top
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