Hamburg, Germany’s beautiful second-largest city, has a stunning location on the banks of the Elbe and Alster Rivers. It’s been the setting for countless films, and is Germany’s leading media city, being home to more than 1,000 film companies and major publishers.
This Hanseatic trading port offers a mind-boggling mix of culture and nightlife and a fascinating 1,200 year-old history. Its streets are peppered with warehouses, wattle-and-daub buildings, landmark churches, canals and bridges. In fact, Hamburg boasts more bridges than Venice.
Indeed, waterways are Hamburg’s best feature, covering eight per cent of the city’s surface area. After a day’s work, plenty of the town’s wealthy citizens set sail on the Alster and glide right through the middle of town, and for visitors it’s the perfect way to see the port. Take a harbour tour and ply the narrow canals of the historical Speicherstadt, the world’s oldest warehouse, with its tantalizing tea and spice aromas.
When it comes to culture, Hamburg’s got it all. With three state theatres, 40 stages, 70 museums, the Hamburg State Opera and three full-sized orchestras, it attracts some of the world’s most famous classical names every month. As for musicals, Hamburg rivals only London and New York.
It’s also renowned for its club scene, boasting about the best jazz in Germany and with its numerous live music venues, is on the circuit for many of the world’s biggest rock bands. In Hamburg, bars and clubs stay open until 5am and even longer at weekends, so this is a town to dance the night away quite literally.
And if hitting the floor saps your energy totally, check into one of the dozens of spas. Hamburg has some of the very latest health and beauty treatments. Discover what kneippism can do for you at the Seagull Spa or return home revitalised with “sound body, mind and soul” from the Energy Clinic.
If you’re into sports, check out what’s on from the tourist board’s website and get on the ticket hot-line. The city hosts around 50 national and international sports events each year including Premier League football, handball and ice hockey plus horse-racing competitions and sailing regattas.
Perhaps shopping is more your vision of exercise, you’ll tone up in no time. Hamburg is a retailing paradise, from back-to-back outlets on Möckebergstrasse to designer shops at Neuen Wall or discover the new Europa Passage on the Inner Alster, there’s nothing that can’t be bought in this town.
Beyond Hamburg, Schleswig-Holstein has two contrasting coastlines to explore, the undulating Baltic shore and the windy North Sea coast, off which are the North Friesian Islands. In summer, these are a riot of yellow fields and green meadows, ideal cycling territory.
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If it’s a Sunday, get over to the Fischmarkt at the harbour, a weekly circus of shopping and selling, buy anything from a live chicken to a dubious souvenir. Have breakfast at one of the surrounding bars, usually filled with shoppers and all-night revellers.
Then head to the oldest part of Hamburg, around the ruined tower of St Nikolai, originally one of Germany’s finest neo-Gothic churches, it was flattened during the war. Follow the canal south, cross the busy Ost-West-Strasse to see imposing 18th century merchant homes. The most famous are at Deichstrasse, which is where the Great Fire of 1842 broke out, devastating much of the city. At number 37, known as the Alt-Hamburg Bürgerhaus, it’s been refurbished in its original style.
Then stroll northeast to St Jakobi, the church is best-known for its 17th century organ, reckoned to be the greatest ever made and still in frequent use. Every Thursday there’s a free recital, and between July and September there are concerts each Tuesday at 8pm. Aside from the organ, it’s well worth taking a look at the beautifully carved Gothic retables. Pick up a few souvenirs on Mönckebergstrasse, the old town’s main shopping street, right behind St Jakobi.
Then go north to Kunsthalle, home to one of Germany’s best collection of paintings and sculptures, from medieval to contemporary, featuring Flemish works by van Dyck, Rembrandt and Goya. Before embarking on the massive collection, have lunch at the Café Liebermann, probably Hamburg’s grandest café, and then feast your eyes on the visual delights of the Kunstahalle.
To see the city as a whole, give your legs a rest and take an afternoon one-hour steamer port cruise on the Alster, it’s the best way to grasp the water’s importance to Hamburg’s economic growth. Have a look at the Speicherstadt, the world’s largest self-contained warehouse complex, with canals and cobblestone streets.
If it’s your thing, spend the evening in the St Pauli district at the all-night bars and shows. Alternatively enjoy some of the world’s most wonderful classical music, after all, you’re in the birthplace of Mendelssohn and Brahms.
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Visit www.flybehotels.com for a wide choice of hotel options. Hamburg has plenty of hotels, but it’s important to book ahead and pick one listed on Flybe’s website to avoid staying in the red light district. The three-star Panorama Inn is great value and just 10 minutes walk from the shops and sights. Also in the heart of the city is the Accord Novum, or the three-star Eleazar Novum. The fish market is just a short walk from the three-star Intercity Hotel. If you’ve come to shop and are on a budget, try the two-star A & O Hotel where rooms start at £32.75, just three stops on the tram to the pedestrianised shopping area. Or trade up to the four-star Ramada Neff, well-located in the Bergedorf district.
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By road: Hamburg Airport (tel: +49 (0) 40 50750) is 8 km north of the city. Take the 433 south and then R2 to the city centre.
Contact Flybe’s car rental partner Avis for best available car hire rates.
By bus: Take the Airport-Express busline 110 at Terminal 2, Area A. Departures every 10 minutes, adults €2.50, children €0.90. Or take Airport Express, Terminals 1 & 2, Area B, adults €5, children €2.
By train: From the airport to Kirchenallee station, trains run from 4.40am, every 15 minutes until 9.20pm.
By taxi: Taxi ranks in front of Terminal 1. A ride into the Hamburg centre costs around €20.
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Hamburg’s main train station, the Hauptbahnhof, is at the eastern edge of the city and just to its south-east is the main bus station, Zob. From here there are plenty of local and international bus routes. Needless to say, the public transport is extremely efficient around the city. HVV operates a network of buses and S- and U-bahn trains. A day ticket costs about €6 and can be used by one adult and up to three children. But the HamburgCard gives much better value, available from the tourist office.
www.hvv.de
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Climbing: The Leeds wall is run by qualified professionals and caters for all abilities. With over 200 varied routes for different abilities the largest climbing wall in the region is often busy with new and seasoned climbers looking for an adrenaline rush. Phone +44 (0) 113 234 1554. www.theleedswall.co.uk
The Carnegie Stadium: Home of Leeds and Yorkshire’s finest sports teams, the Headlingly complex houses the Yorkshire cricket team, Leeds Rhinos RLC and Leeds Tykes RFC. Hosting a range of events through 2007 and 2008, most notably the cricket ODI between England and India on September 2nd. www.yorkshireccc.com
Golf: Gotts Park Golf. Club is three miles from the city centre and has 18 holes which suit both beginners and advanced golfers, offering a challenge on each hole. Phone +44 (0) 113 231 1896 for more information.
Xscape Castleford: This extreme sport multiplex is one of the most popular in the region. With a range of activities inside including Snowzone, one of the only ‘real snow’ ski centres in the country, rock and ice climbing walls and an aerial assault course, you can see why it is so popular. Located in Colorado Way, Glasshoughton, Castleford it also has bowling lanes, a multi-screen cinema, cafés, restaurants, and even some shopping. To get there by car exit the M62 at Junction 32 and follow brown tourism signs for Xscape. Easy to spend a day there, phone +44 (0) 871 200 3221 or + 44 (0) 1977 523 000. www.xscape.co.uk
If you’re short of time, take an Alster Cruise (+49 (0) 40 3574 240) which highlights the inner and outer reservoirs of the Alster Lakes. It’s an ideal way to view the natural habitats of the city.
Schleswig-Holstein: A land between two seas, Schleswig-Holstein is mainly an agricultural region, with two very different coastlines, the gentle, flat Baltic shore and the wind-blown North Sea coast. In summer the landscape blazes with the colour of poppies, cornflowers and rapeseed fields. It’s ideal cycling territory.
Lübeck: Just north-east of Hamburg is Lübeck, an architectural gem. In its heyday during the 13th to 15th centuries, it was one of Europe’s richest cities, and there are still plenty of beautiful merchants’ houses, redbrick Gothic churches and impressively ornate charity buildings. Germany’s oldest town hall is here, still in use and no German city is better known for its organ recitals.
www.kirchenmusik-luebeck.de
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Ratzeburg: Another idyllic town, 23km from Lübeck and at the southern end of the Ratzeburger See, the largest of the many lakes dotted across the countryside. Its quaint old town is built on a tiny island linked to the mainland by a series of causeways. There are a number of ancient churches, museums and some beautiful lake cruises worth experiencing.
Flensburg: A fascinating old trading port with markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays, or visit the historic fishing harbour at Husum, while Schleswig, the province’s historical capital, has plenty of attractions including an enormous Gothic Dom tower.
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Before visiting the city sights, invest in a Hamburgcard which then gives free entry to the municipally-owned museums and big discounts on other attractions.
Rathaus: Hamburg’s town hall dominates the old town. Guided tours of just some of its 647 rooms. Hourly tours, about €3, run Mon-Thur from 10.15am-3.15pm, Fri-Sun 10am-1pm.
Marienkirche: Hamburg’s largest church, 15th century works of art, life size carving of John the Baptist.
St Jakobi: Inside the church is one of the greatest organs ever assembled, every Thursday there’s a short recital at noon.
The Alster: A massive lake right in the middle of town, sail or boat right through the centre, take an Alster steamer for a relaxing tour. Alster Cruises, tel: +49 (0) 40 3574 240.
Speicherstadt: The world’s largest self-contained warehouse, with canals and cobblestone streets, containing the Speicherstadtmuseum (open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm, entry €3) which exhibits the working life of the old warehouse quarter.
Kuntshalle: Open Tues, Wed and Fri-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs 10am-9pm. One of the most notable art collections in Germany, with paintings and sculptures from medieval times to present day. Flemish collection includes Rembrandt, van Dyck, Bellotto and Goya amongst others. www.hamburger-kunsthalle.de
Alter Botanischer Garten: Tel: +49 (0) 40 8229 3161. Beautiful botanic gardens featuring a collection of the world’s most exotic flora. Aussenalster. One of the city’s defining features, a natural lake used for ice-skating in winter, swimming or sailing in summer but packed with people anytime of year.
Fischmarkt: Sunday mornings, 5am-10am Oct-Mar. Best place to begin exploring Hamburg’s harbour. Fishmarket hall and waterfront fills up with marketstalls, stock up on souvenirs, t-shirts or snacks to the sounds of early morning jazz.
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Hamburg is world-renowned for its clubs and boasts the best jazz scene in Germany. If you’re seeking bars, many of the most popular are in the St Pauli area and don’t open before 10pm. The Univiertel and Schanzenviertel districts attract students and are good for finding a cheap meal. Try Prizenbar on Kastanienallee or Gröninger Braukeller, Ost-West-Str, a cavernous cellar brewing its own beer.
Head to the Cotton Club (+49 (0) 40 343 878) for top live jazz, Fabrik (+49 (0) 40 3910 70) for rock bands and dance music or Logo (+49 (0) 40 4105658) for cutting-edge new sounds.
While Hamburg has a reputation for a wild nightlife, its cultural scene is just as vibrant. There’s opera, ballet, choral and organ music, it boasts three full-sized orchestras and there are also plenty of concerts and recitals in churches, particularly St Jakobi. Consult Szene Hamburg or Prinz for listings.
www.hamburgersymphoniker.de
www.ndrsinfoieorchester.de
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Blessed with an international port and ideal geographical position, Hamburg is Germany’s largest trade centre. It’s also the largest non-capital city in the European Union.
Major employers include the aerospace industry, Airbus employs 30,000 alone, the media industry - national newspapers and magazines, music companies, including Warner Music - and internet firms such as AOL, Adobe Systems and Google Germany are all positioned here. Hamburg also boasts Europe’s largest copper plant and thriving steel, aluminium and shipping industries.
This is also an extremely wealthy city; in terms of average income, Europe’s richest after London. But surprisingly, Germany has low levels of home ownership, only 42 per cent compared with 70 per cent in the UK. The country has a culture of state subsidy for rental accommodation and that, combined with a reluctance by German banks to lend money for mortgages, keeps the housing market fairly flat. However, with property prices currently close to the bottom of the market and only expected to rise, now could be a good time to buy.
Expect to pay €42,000 for a two-bed apartment in the centre of Hamburg.
www.immostreet.co.uk
For more information on buying property with English-speaking estate agents and solicitors or for business investment, visit the Hamburg Chamber of Commerce website, or the British Chamber of Commerce in Germany.
www.hamburg-chamber.org
www.bccg.de
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Hamburg prides itself on its connection with the Beatles. It was, according to John Lennon, where the Beatles “grew up.” From 1960-62 the band spent some of their early years performing in clubs along the Reeperbahn in Hamburg’s red light district. Their first appearance was at the Indra Club, but shortly after, George Harrison and Paul McCartney returned to Liverpool. It was when John Lennon and then band member Stuart Sutcliffe returned to England to perform at Liverpool’s Cavern Club that they really entered the history books.
That said, it was in Hamburg that the group first met Ringo Starr and the ‘Fab Four’ played live together for the first time. The group were local stars in Hamburg long before Beatlemania gripped the world.
To cement Hamburg’s link with the band, a ‘Beatles Square’ is about to be built. A city tour has also been put together by Hamburg Tourism known as ‘Love me do - The Beatles in St Pauli’. It highlights where the Beatles played, lived and lunched, where famous photos were taken, and visits clubs where they performed, brought to life by their music.
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Photo courtesy of Hamburg Tourist Office |
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