A Tasty Suggestion
La Cabaña Finca Buenavista is a traditional Spanish restaurant situated close to Puerto de la Cadena. The massive restaurant can seat around 1000 people if needed, which makes it ideal for large parties and celebrations, which it regularly stages. It has a slight African feel to it, which is seen in both the menu and the décor.
The restaurant also provides beautiful views of the gardens behind through large windows all around the restaurant. The extremely high quality service is coupled with imaginative, tasty food. However, the menu is constantly changing depending on what produce is available that week. This means that every visit is different.
La Cabaña fuses modern cuisine whilst trying to keep to its traditional Murcian roots. Open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, go to www.fincabuenavista.net or phone +34 968 889 006 for more information.
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SEPTEMBER 2008: The Feria de Murcia is held in the first two weeks of September and are host to a wide range of different events including parades and fiestas. For further information visit www.murciaturistica.com/
… and here are some more great things you can do in and around Murcia…
SEPTEMBER 2008: The Cartagena and Romans festival is a celebration of the Roman Empire as a battle is re enacted in the city between the Cartagenans and the Romans. Including a themed circus and other acting events it is a lot of fun. To find out more go to www.murciaturistica.com/
DAILY (not Mondays): Murcia's Museo de Ciencia y Agua (Science and Water Museum) presents scientific knowledge in a popular, interactive format that is accessible to all the public. The museum is divided into four main sections: The Science Plaza; Discover and Imagine is an interactive room aimed at children aged three to seven years; The Children's Sky, School Planetarium; The
Water Room has 38 modules that explore the properties of water and its uniqueness. In addition to the four main sections, there is a large room dedicated to displaying temporary exhibitions on scientific subjects. Tel: +34 968 211 998 or visit www.cienciayagua.org
DAILY: The Museo Salzillo houses one of the largest collections of religious sculptures by Francisco Salzillo (1707 – 1783). Salzillo is renowned throughout Spain for his work, and at only €3 to get in this is a perfect opportunity to see some of the finest sculptures in the world. www.museosalzillo.es
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Pampered to perfection
Not only is the Murcia region rich in natural parks and reserves, but more recently, the area has become a magnet for spa and thalassotherapy centres. The combination of 2,800 hours of sun and average temperatures of 18ºC together with a huge natural salt lagoon and underwater springs make it the perfect destination for pampering health breaks.
Murcia’s thermal spas offer the latest equipment, sports facilities and medical advice, and harness the natural underground springs, rich in sulphur, chlorine, sodium and calcium, in its treatment menus. Two of the best resorts are at Achena and Fortuna.
www.balneariodearchena.com
www.leana.es
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For far too long the autonomous region of Murcia has been overlooked as tourists have raced to the glamorous resorts of Valencia or Andalucía. But now, with the arrival of great-value flights and the desire for more ‘rural’ retreats, the area is opening its tourism doors. And long overdue it is too, for the region of Murcia is home to some of the most handsome towns in Spain - Lorca and Caravaca de la Cruz among them- as well as dozens of sleepy, castle-topped villages. It also boasts the Sierra de Espuña, a natural park ideal for hiking, bird-watching and getting back to nature.
And then there’s Murcia town itself. This is a truly congenial, unspoilt, deeply Spanish little city, where sitting in a flower-filled square enjoying some tapas with a drink is one of life’s greatest pleasures.
This university town is an exciting mix of the contemporary and traditional: tree-lined avenues, modern parks and quaint cafés blend with an Old Quarter that harks back to the city’s Moorish routes. It was founded in 831 by Abd-Al-Rahman, who was lured to the fertile plain of the Segura River, in what was an otherwise rather arid and barren region. The Moors carefully cultivated the land to transform it into a fruitful agricultural area and this water-management system forms the basis of Murcia’s agriculture today.
Because of its desert-like landscape, the Catalans had always despised the region, but the Moors loved it and gave it the name Musiyah. It still retains a strong link to this past and most 21st century Muslim scholars would say that the 12th century Ibn Al-Arabi of Murcia was the greatest Spaniard that ever lived.
Even today, the streets follow the twists and turns of the old Moorish town, interspersed with a fine cluster of Renaissance and Baroque churches, not least the 14th Century Cathedral de Santa Maria. Murcia is also home to the Sanzillo Museum, where the dramatic works of the 18th Century Murcian sculptor, Francisco Sanzillo, are concentrated.
This provincial capital is on the main road between Valencia and Granada and, as it attracts large numbers of travelling Spaniards, offers no shortage of fine restaurants. Murcia takes its gastronomy and wine seriously: the area has cultivated vineyards since the Roman times and it makes the most of fresh local citrus fruit and vegetable ingredients. Look out for a huge variety of meat and rice dishes flavoured with Arabic spices.
The Moor influence is also found in the pedestrianised city centre with its rich, sienna-coloured buildings. And if you venture further afield, Murcia is hemmed in by mountains and nearby fine sandy beaches - great for kids, or visit Mar Menor, Europe’s largest salt-water lagoon providing a plethora of water sports. And if you’re into golf, tennis or football, La Manga’s right on the doorstep.
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Even if you’ve only a passing interest in culture, it’s worth starting your day at the medieval cathedral - after all, it took four centuries to complete. It’s an unusual building by any standards, with a hotch-potch of styles and some 23 different chapels. The cathedral overlooks the plaza Cardenal Belluga, a great place to stop for a coffee and sweet pastry, and then walk up Traperia, the main street of medieval times, towards Plaza de Santo Domingo and beyond to Gran Via Alfonso X El Sabio, an esplanade with cafés and bookstalls. Or make your way through a network of squares and the narrow streets of the former Jewish quarter to the university.
Visit the Museo Salzillo in Plaza San Agustin (+34 968 29 18 93) for a look at the dramatic sculptures of Francisco Sanzillo whose figures are astonishingly life-like. Stop for tapas or linger over a full-blown Murcian lunch, and then head over to the Mercado de las Verónicas, probably the prettiest of Murcia’s many produce markets. If you want to shop, the old thoroughfare Plateria has plenty of elegant clothes boutiques.
Spend the evening at one of the popular salsa bars near plaza Julian Romea for an evening of lively Spanish dancing, try a local wine and if it’s a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night, watch the place fill up with a crowd who enjoy life and will carry on to the madrugada, wee small hours.
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Murcia is a comparatively little-visited regional capital and has a range of comfortable hotels with a relaxed pace of life, a pleasant contrast to the bustle and noise of some of the larger resorts. Many are family-owned and offer plenty of Spanish charm - look out for special weekend deals.
The four-star Silken Siete Coronas is handy for the city centre, whilst the three-star Barceloel Cenajo offers a distinct location on the mountain range outside Murcia. Book on www.flybehotels.com
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By car: Explore the city and the countryside in comfort and style at great prices! Get the best deal by checking Flybe's partner Avis for the best available car hire rates at www.flybe.com/avis
By road: The airport is situated at San Javier, approximately 45km (28 miles) from the city centre and can be accessed both by the road of the Mar Menor and the A37 Alicante-Cartagena. Contact Flybe’s car rental partner Avis for the best available car hire rates.
By taxi: Taxis gather in the terminal forecourt. The journey into the city centre takes approximately 40 minutes and costs around £25.
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Walking around the town centre is easy and the best way to see the sights. The RENFE (Spanish railways) train station is south of town, on Calle Industria, town buses numbers 9 and 11 will take you there from the city centre. Trains run along the coast to Barcelona, Valencia and Alicante.
The bus station is east of the city centre with local services to Aguilas, Lorca, Totana, Moratalla, Cartagena and Mazarron (tel: +34 968 292 211).
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Hiking: The Murcia region in Spain is a great place for walking and hiking with routes dotted all around the area. The ‘Parque Natural de Sierra Espuna’ has many hiking and walking trails, which run through lush pine forests and remote villages. There is plenty of wildlife to see with exciting birdwatching opportunities. Animals you can expect to see are birds of prey, large mountain goats and wild cats. Snow-capped in the winter, the large limestone mountains offer a scenic view and beautiful setting. Nearest the city is the El Valle and Carrascoy natural park, which also features beautiful surroundings and plenty of wildlife to spot.
Golf: The Murcia region of Spain has an abundance of golf courses, 12 to be exact. With the sun shining almost all year round it is the perfect place for a golf retreat. The best-known club in the area, and one of the top clubs in the whole country, is La Manga. With three stunning 18-hole golf courses you are spoilt for choice. La Manga has played host to the Spanish Open, PGA Championship, the National Junior Championships as well as the ladies’ and seniors Open Championships. All three courses are available to play all year round and the club has a great reputation. http://golf.lamangaclub.com
Sailing: The closest place to Murcia for sailing is the Club Nautico Mar Menor. The sailing school is very well equipped for both adults and children. The club is open all year-round and organises a large number of activities such as regattas, parties and voyages. It offers a good range of courses for beginners and those who want to develop their skills. www.enmarmenor.net
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Murcia is known for its nightlife and considering its size, has plenty of action after dark thanks partly to its university. If you’re with a stag or hen party, head to the area around Calle Doctor Fleming and the Plaza Universidad, or the bars along Calle Algaro, close to Plaza Julian Romea.
Try the dim and candlelit El Ahorcado Feliz (The Happy Hanged Man) at Calle Canovas del Castillo 35(+34 968 21 47 49) and El Perro Azul (The Blue Dog) with its book-lined interior at Calle Simon Garcia 19 (+34 968 22 17 00).
For live bands and dancing, visit Caribe (tel: +34 968 266 886) for salsa on Calle González Adalid or El Latino, (tel: +34 968 215 356), on Calle Vitorio, for rock and blues, La Puerta Falsa (tel: +34 968 200 484) on Calle San Martín de Porres, or, for something smarter and an awesome line-up of whiskies, El Mentidero (tel: +34 968 223 533) on Calle Saavedra Fajardo.
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A recent downturn in sales in the Spanish property market has appeared to have affected Murcia more than other surrounding regions. In the last quarter year planning approvals in the region have fallen 84%. By the end of 2007 the Murcia regional council had planned to build just over 300,000 homes in the region, however it is most likely that this target will not be met and the build will take much longer than predicted.
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Murcia’s cathedral: Plaza Cardenal Belluga 1, tel: +34 968 221 371, is an interesting mix of architectural styles. The Gothic Puerta de los Apóstoles is the oldest part, but the exterior was given a facelift in the 18th century and is now a flamboyant Baroque structure, topped with an extravagant bell tower. Inside, the Vélez Chapel is caked with florid plasterwork, and following burial traditions of important religious figures there is an urn containing the heart of Alfonso X ‘the wise’. There’s also a museum (closed at present due to renovation works) displaying paintings and sculptures plus a Roman frieze.
Palacio Episcopal: Opposite the cathedral on Plaza Cardenal Belluga (good for tapas) is the grand 18th century Palacio Episcopal and nearby is the opulent casino, tel: +34 968 215 399, open 9.30-9pm, a 19th century building used as a meeting club for the upper middle-lass containing a lovely patio designed in the Alhambra style.
Museo Arqueológico: Open Monday-Friday 09.00-14.00 and 16.00-20.00, Saturday 10.00-13.30, closed Sunday, offers a collection of Iberian artefacts, Roman coins and sculptures and past relics of Islamic rule. Nearby is the 17th century convent, now home to Murcia’s university. www.arqueomurcia.com
Museo de Bellas Artes: Southeast is Museo de Bellas Artes, open summer Monday-Friday 09.00-14.00, Saturday 11.00-14.00; winter Monday-Friday 09.00-14.00 and 15.00-19.30, Saturday 11.00-14.00, closed Sunday. Here you’ll find paintings dating back to the 15th century and works by several Spanish masters.
Museo Salzillo: At Plaza San Augustín 3, (tel: +34 968 291 893) open Tuesday-Saturday 09.30-13.00 and 16.00-19.00, entry €3, exhibits a series of highly detailed floats created by Francisco Salzillo and used in the town’s famous Semana Santa processions.
Monasterio de Santa Clara del Real: You can buy cakes from the cloistered nuns and visit the 18th century church and delicate Mudéjar cloister.
Almundí: An Arabic grain house near the Ayuntamiento now holds temporary art exhibitions and nearby is the pretty produce market, Mercado de las Verónicas.
Two museums sit beside the Segura river.
Museo Hidráulico Los Molinos de Río Segura: Set in a dramatically converted watermill and uses multi-media exhibits to describe the history of watermills (tel: +34 968 358 600). www.molinosdelrio.org
Museo de la Ciencia y el Agua: Ultra-modern and perfect for families, it’s stuffed with interactive exhibits to make learning fun and features a mini-planetarium. (tel: +34 968 211 998, entry €1.20)
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Cartegena: One of the oldest cities on the Iberian Peninsula and Hannibal’s capital. It’s positioned on a natural bay and is stashed with monuments from ancient civilisations making it fascinating to visit. It’s easily reached with regular train services from Murcia. The old town is dominated by the ruins of the Castillo de la Concepcíon and the remnants of an Arabic lighthouse, the castle’s surrounded by lovely gardens complete with strutting peacocks and providing great sea views. There’s a Roman theatre just below, only discovered in 1987, in fact there are Roman walls and roads being uncovered all over town.
Museo Nacional de Arqueología Maitima: All things nautical are on display at the museum located near the port (tel: +34 968 121 166) including memorabilia from shipwrecks. The Plaza de Ayuntamiento features an extravagant Palacio Consistorial and leading off the square is the pretty, tiled Casa Llogestera and city Casino. At dusk, the area teems with sauntering families who stop for an early evening aperitif at a terrace café.
La Manga: Probably the biggest tourist draw of the entire region. Its centre of attraction is the Mar Menor, Little Sea, a very broad 170-metre square stretch of shallow saltwater, rich in minerals and always balmily warm. Dividing it from the sea is a narrow strip of sand, La Manga (the sleeve) del Mar Menor, so you can choose to dip in the warm lagoon or brace the ‘cooler’ waves of the Med.
La Manga Club: The swanky club (+44 (0) 1621 890094) is the biggest international sports resort in Europe, and if you’re loaded, this is the place to play. It features three championship-standard golf courses, football centres, tennis facilities, watersports, and is used by celebrity sports players for winter training from around the world. Buses run frequently to La Manga from Murcia.
It’s worth exploring this south-eastern corner of Spain. It remains mostly free of mass tourism and although it has big beach resorts like La Manga and Mazarrón, they’re engulfed by long stretches of wild and breathtaking coastline. Beyond lies a land of rough beauty characterised by rugged sierras and pristine pine forests.
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Murcia has a population of around 320,000, and is a thriving and prosperous town. Its major industry is agriculture, its tomatoes, lettuces, lemons and peppers are exported right across Northern Europe. It also has a popular university and well-educated workforce, and its tourism industry is expanding fast.
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Although Murcia as a region certainly has arid, desert-like parts, it also boasts a wealth of natural habitats, some of the most impressive in Spain. It’s said here that one half of Murcia looks out to life at sea, while the other looks at life inland. This is about the best place in the country to get back to nature.
If you’re interested in ecology, visit San Pedro del Pinatar salt lagoons, on the border with Alicante, or try Calblanque Nature Reserve, close to La Manga and the seaside town of Cabo de Palos.
Inland, nature-lovers and especially bird-watchers, will discover a wealth of life at the Natural Park of Sierra Espuña or El Valle Nature Reserve. These are perfect parks for trekking, either by horse or on foot, and enjoy the lakes, reservoirs and water courses from a canoe or kayak.
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Photos courtesy of Ayuntamiento de Murcia |
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