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Eating Out

Eating out is one of the greatest pleasures in visiting Paris and there’s a tremendous amount of choice from Thai to eastern European, Caribbean to North African. But French cuisine is unsurpassed and it’s still possible to get excellent value on a modest budget. Many places offer a fixed-price menu of two or three courses, called either a menu or formule for €12 or less at lunchtime, €15 in the evening. Spend around €25 and there’s a wider choice in bistros and brasseries and for €35 and up you should be in gourmet heaven.

The tourist hotspots are always more expensive than lesser known quarters, a snack on the Champs-Elysées is twice the price of one in, say, Belleville. For dinner, bookings at real gourmet citadels need to be made weeks, if not months, in advance.

And don’t forget to leave room for coffee and cakes in a chintzy salon de thé, bookshop or gallery.

5th Bar (+33 01 4337 0909) is the cosiest of the city’s many expat pubs. Small, dark and squeezed into two floors, it boasts Sky Sports, a pool table at the back and pub-type bonhomie and banquettes downstairs. Staff and punters here are residents from over the Channel or the Atlantic, happy to pay a little extra for the convenience of discussing familiar topics with their own kind.

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (+33 01 5367 6500). Its sheer glamour would be enough to recommend this restaurant, Alain Ducasse’s loftiest Paris undertaking. The dining room has a new clementine-and-white colour scheme and the ceiling drips with 10,000 crystals. An amuse-bouche of a langoustine in lemon cream with Iranian caviar starts a meal beautifully; try Breton lobster in apple, quince and spiced wine, and end with the rum baba à Monte-Carlo, with the finest rums for dousing.

Alcazar (+33 01 5310 1999). The success of Terence Conran’s Paris gastrodome has more to do with its cachet than the food. Seafood is a safe bet and staff can rustle up a good brunch: perfect scrambled eggs, fluffy muffins and a rich chocolate cake. The mezzanine ‘AZ bar’ has sleek velvet banquette and a vantage point over the restaurant; it’s posh without being posey – and the drinks are great. The impressive DJ line-up at the Wagg draws local yuppies; the music gets pumping after midnight.

Allard (+33 01 4326 4823). This fine, traditional bistro has a pre-war feel, an impression confirmed by the kitchen, which sends out the sort of glorious Gallic grub you come to Paris for. Start with sliced Lyonnaise sausage studded with pistachios and served with potato salad in delicious vinaigrette, or maybe a sauté of wild mushrooms; then try roast Bresse chicken with sautéed ceps or roast duck with olives. Finish up with the tarte fine de pommes.

A la Bière (+33 01 4239 8325), looks like one of those nondescript corner brasseries with noisy pop music and lots of smoke, but what makes it stand out is an amazingly good-value €12.30 prix fixe full of bistro favourites. Start with thinly sliced pig’s cheek with a nice French dressing on the salad and then go for charcoal-grilled entrecôte with hand-cut chips. This is one of those bargain eateries in Paris.

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Shopping

French flair for style and design is as evident in Paris shops as it is in other aspects of the culture, and browsing around its markets and bookshops is a delight. In contrast to many other European capitals, fierce Parisian loyalty to local traders has kept many small shops alive and the capital is peppered with a wonderful variety of speciality stores.

Place St-Germain-des-Prés. The kilometre surrounding this place is particularly hard to beat, its winding streets overflow with bookshops, antiques, artwork and ornaments, but in almost any quarter of the city you’ll stumble over enticing treasures to take home.

Fashion:
If you’ve come for top designer labels, anyone who’s anyone in fashion is here, and most of the big names are conveniently located in the centre. Agnès B, Chanel, Christian Lacroix, Versace, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Yves Saint-Laurent not only have their own glamorous emporia, but also display their collections at department stores like Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. Check website for a complete designer list. www.modeaparis.com

rue St-Placide and rue St-Dominique for Paris chic without designer price tags, try the rue St-Placide and rue St-Dominique in the 6th and 7th arrondissements or Forum des Halles which is packed with great value clothes shops.

Books:
If the catwalk leaves you cold, take a look at the rows of book stalls in the Latin Quarter, by the Seine. Whatever the time of year, leafing through the works of Voltaire and Sartre in the streets they were penned is an experience not to be missed.

Apart from Shakespeare & Co (see Perfect Day above), Gibert Jeune, 10 place St-Michel, is the biggest of the student-academic haunts, with a vast choice of French and English books. Rare and specialist volumes can also be found; visit Présence Africaine for black African titles or Caribbean and North African philosophy.

Food:
Sumptuous food stores are everywhere in Paris, with cheese counters to die for.

Carmés et Fils, rue de Lévis, features cheese made in cellars below the shop, but one of the greatest pleasures is simply exploring the back streets and diving into anything that looks interesting. There are stores specialising in everything from chocolate to snails, and of course no shortage of caves where you can sample wine before you buy. Food markets usually start at around 7am and pack up about 1pm. www.parisinfo.com

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Flybe Services

Flybe services to Paris is served by regular scheduled Flybe flights from Belfast, Birmingham, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Exeter, Manchester, Norwich and Southampton. www.flybe.com

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Facts You Need

Climate: Paris has a temperate climate with warm summers reaching 25 degrees C. Temperatures in January and February fall to about 4 degrees C. Rainfall is likely year-round.

Currency: The Euro. £1= €1.49 (August 2007).

Dialling code: For Paris dial +33 1, followed by the establishment number.

Information: French Government Tourist Office, 178 Piccadilly, London W1J 9AL. E-mail: info.uk@franceguide.com

Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau, 25 rue des Pyramides, 75001 Paris. Tel: +33 (0) 892 68 3000.
www.parisinfo.com

Public Holidays 2007: August 15, November 1, 11, December 25, 26 2008: Jan 1; Mar 24: May 1, 8, 12; Jul 14; Aug 15; Nov 1, 11; Dec 25, 26.

Time difference: Paris is one hour ahead of the UK

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A Tasty Suggestion
Visit A Beauvillers

A Beauvillers is located in the centre of old Montmartre and serves exceptional French cuisine. The menu changes throughout the year reflecting the changing seasons and tastes. The atmosphere that has been created across the two dining rooms in intimate and cosy and there is also a shaded terrace which provides diners with a peaceful alcove to relax in the heart of the bustling centre of culture and history. Located on the rue Lemark and a stone’s throw from the Sacré Cœur, the restaurant is beautifully situated and makes for an excellent romantic evening out in the heart of the French capital. Tel +33 (0) 1 45 72 07 14

AUGUST 10 – 26: The Paris Cinema au clair de lune festival presents free films across various venues within the Parisian quarter of the city. This years theme is European cinema and includes films by sich big names as Woody Allen. To find out more go to www.forumdesimages.net/

...and here are some more great things to do and see in and around Paris…

AUGUST 18 – SEPTEMBER 7: The Arenes de Montmartre Festival, a travelling Italian theatre, comes for a three-week festival of street performances and theatre. To find out more visit www.mysterebouffe.com/

AUGUST 28 – 29: The Festival Rock en Seine is an outdoor event which spans two days in the Saint Cloud Park just outside the city centre. The big names performing this year are Amy Winehouse and REM. To find out more go to www.rockenseine.com/

OCTOBER 2008: The JVC Jazz Festival is performaed at various venues all over the city and gives visitors a taste of Parisian style jazz. Big names from all over the world come and play at these events and they are not to be missed. For more information go to www.looproductions.com/

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What's Hot

The Pompidou’s Big Birthday
Centre Pompidou is celebrating its 30th birthday all this year. Opened in 1977 the Pompidou has become a cultural landmark that everyone who wants to visit Paris should spend at least one day in. The centre is dedicated entirely to modern and contemporary art and serves as a focal point of art, music, theatre, literature and cinema. With a rich programme of events planned for the whole year there has never been a better time to visit. www.centrepompidou.fr

Smoke-free Paris
Under pressure from its health-conscious residents and tourists, a new voluntary label, “This is a totally tobacco-free area” is being adopted by many Paris hotels, restaurants and cafés. Set up by the powerful National Union of Hotels, Restaurants, Cafés and Caterers, all participating establishments feature the label at their entrance. A full list of smoke-free eating zones can be found on www.parisinfo.com
Free-Hotspot.com and Columbus Café have teamed up to offer free wi-fi internet access at 12 outlets in the French capital.
www.columbuscafe.com

Free-Hotspot.com
www.parisinfo.com

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 City Overview

Paris is, perhaps, the world’s most glamorous city. It’s impossible not to be captivated by its beauty, culture, cuisine and café-life. Indeed the French capital has bewitched almost all its tourists, from Julius Caesar to Cole Porter.

And while deep-rooted traditions still remain and it continues to draw writers, artists and dissidents to the street-life of the Latin Quarter and Montmartre, the influx of immigrants from Algeria and West and Central Africa has triggered a cultural transformation. If you haven’t been for a while, you’ll find it a changed place. Now it offers the best of a modern cosmopolitan city with the stress on fun.

Paris is a feast for all the senses. Gaze at the sweeping boulevards, statuesque monuments and the world’s greatest art, gorge on its cheeses, charcuterie and wine, absorb its music from reggae to Rachmaninov and breathe in the aroma of fresh coffee, roasting chestnuts, or the exotic fragrances of the world’s top perfumiers.

The most tangible pleasures of the city are found in its street life, along the banks and bridges of the River Seine. Browse through the works of pavement artists, linger over a coffee and cognac at one of the cafés or bars that line almost every street and boulevard. What’s more, because it’s so compact, it’s comfortably explored on foot; one minute you can be in the calm, small-town atmosphere of Montmartre, the next in the bustling commercial centres of the Bourse or strolling past the splendid mansions of Marais.

Paris is swamped with architectural clichés with great classical set-pieces like the Louvre, Panthéon and Arc de Triomphe, but also showcases some of the boldest modern design experiments in Europe like the Pompidou Centre and the towering glass Pyramide. And who can help but fall in love under the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower at night?

Spend the day gorging on some of the world’s greatest artwork, and the evening feasting in the cuisine capital of the world. Dine like a king in a Michelin-starred restaurant or sit elbow-to-elbow in a bench-and-trestle café, drink in a cavernous beer cellar or order wine by the glass in a small, corner wine bar.

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A Perfect Day

Start at the Louvre. The museum’s size can be overpowering, pick up a floor plan from the information booth which colour codes the museum’s eight departments. Then choose a particular period and vow to return, but don’t leave before you’ve seen Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. It’s worth noting, your ticket allows you to exit and re-enter as often as you like throughout the day.

Stop for a coffee and cake at any one of the three rather good cafés in the museum and take a look at the amazing glass Pyramide, it’s the only one you’ll see outside Egypt. Once outside, stroll down the rue de Rivoli to the serene Jardin des Tuileries, then dodge the drivers at the grand place de la Concorde to cross to the Champs-Elysées. Seek out one of the brasseries behind the Avenue for a typically French menu and a glass of local wine. And, while you’re there, make a note to return one day to the nearby Musée des Beaux-Arts.

You can’t miss the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysées. If you’re fit, climb to the top for a breath-taking, nine-kilometre sweeping view from the Louvre in the city centre to the Grande Arche de la Défense in the west. From here, head towards the Seine and stroll past the Musée d’Orsay to Notre-Dame, if you’re there by 4.30pm there should be an organ recital.

Cross over to the Latin Quarter and amble past the bookshops and galleries, usually packed with students from the nearby Sorbonne. On Rue de la Bûcherie you’ll find Shakespeare and Company, probably the most famous second-hand English bookshop abroad. An English woman, Sylvia Beach, set it up and became a mother figure for many expat writers, not least James Joyce. After the Ulysees obscenity trial in192, banning its publication in the UK, Beach published the book herself.

Dine at any of the bustling bistros in St-Germain before ending the day at the illuminated Eiffel Tower, one of the world’s most beautiful clichés.

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Accommodation

Although more expensive than the rest of France, Paris hotels are good value compared with other European capitals. There are basically three kinds of hotel in the centre: big, luxury hotels mainly on the Right Bank; business hotels, scattered everywhere; and small, family-run hotels, some very fashionable, others dodgy. If you’re going in June, September or October, it’s essential to book ahead as the city is awash with conventions. July and August are low season but it’s still advisable to book, if you walk in off the street you’re more likely to be offered a poky room.

My Extras offers an enormous selection in Paris. Centrally located is the family-run Altona Hotel. Tucked away in a quiet corner is the Timhotel Italie, popular with artists and close to the metro. The Comfort Davout is ideal for Disneyland Paris. Book on +44 (0) 871 900 8297. www.flybehotels.com

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Getting to Paris

By car: Explore the city and the countryside in comfort and style at great prices! Get the best deal by checking Flybe's partner Avis for the best available car hire rates at www.flybe.com/avis

By road: Charles de Gaulle airport is 23km (14 miles) northeast of the city. Take the A1 to the ring-road to the city centre. Contact Flybe’s car rental partner Avis for the best available car hire rates.
www.flybe.com/avis

By rail: Quickest link is Roissyrail which runs on RER line B from terminal 2 every 15 minutes from 5am until midnight. It takes 30 minutes and costs about €8 one-way.

By bus/coach: The Roissybus connects CDG terminal 1 and terminal 2 with the metro Opéra, it runs every 15 minutes from 5.45am to 11pm and costs €8.30 one-way and takes around 45 minutes.

By taxi: Taxis into the capital’s centre cost about €40, expect to pay a supplement for luggage, only applicable from the second piece of luggage placed in the boot of the vehicle. It takes 50 minutes to an hour.

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Getting Around

The Métro combined with the RER suburban express lines is the simplest way of moving around Paris. The Métro runs from 5.30am to 0.30am, RER trains run from 5am to 0.30am. Stations are evenly spaced and you’ll rarely be more than 500 metres from one in the city centre.

From mid-April to mid-September, a special orange and white Balabus service passes all the major tourist sights between Grande Arche de la Défense and Gare de Lyon. These run every 15 minutes from noon to 9pm only on Sundays and holidays.

For a short stay in Paris, carnets of 10 tickets valid on bus, Métro and RER can be bought from any station or tabac for €10.50 instead of €1.40 per ticket.

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Activities

Disneyland Paris: Disneyland resort Paris is a must for those with children. On top of the ample selection of things to already do and see, the resort is going all out for its 15th anniversary. There are new planned parades and rides themed on Finding Nemo and Cars as well as a whole host of characters to meet around the ground; something new for everyone to see. Specific areas of the park will also be open outside regular hours throughout the celebrations and with kids under seven going free this is an ideal time to go. Tel:  +44 (0) 8705 03 03 03 (international calls). www.disneylandparis.co.uk

Hot Air Ballooning: Take in the sights and sounds around the Paris area…from above! As the home of the first ever hot air balloon flights, thanks to the enterprising Montgolfière brothers, this French invention is still going strong and France Montgolfières offers visitors the chance to take in Paris’s beautiful sights in a unique manner. With plenty of rivers, villages and ancient forests to see this is an opportunity that can’t be missed! Tel: +33(0) 2 54 32 20 48.
www.france-montgolfiere.com

Golf: Paris has it all; culture, history, style and golf! Keen golfers can tee off on the famous Chantilly courses, home to roughs that are comparable to those found at the British Open. The area is also well known for racing and with events carrying on throughout the year there is always something to see. Other courses include the Albatross National course and Fontainebleau.  Tel: +33 (0) 1 41 22 00 81. www.france-golf-tours.com

River Cruises: Take a trip down the Seine at any time of the day to enjoy the sights or enjoy a romantic meal with a loved one. There are a whole host of river cruises on offer which provide a great way to travel through the heart of Paris without any of the problems of traffic and pushy pedestrians. Tours set out from the foot of the Eiffel tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral and are accompanied by a guide. At night the river takes on a new life as you travel down it accompanied by music and the best in French cuisine. Tel: +33 (0) 1 46 99 43 13. www.bateauxparisiens.com

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Property

While prices in Paris are rising steadily they are still lower than those of other European cities. International buyers are continuing to keep the market healthy and the election of Mr Sarkozy has pledged to help French buyers to own their own homes, this initially led to slack in the market but after his election the trend continued as predicted. However, as Paris has limits on its size and with continual investment from overseas, the market is not forecast to decline in the near future although there is currently a surplus of studio flats for rent. Those who want to invest in Paris have a huge variety of choice, ranging from more contemporary flats to older properties that exude Parisian charm.  

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Key Places to Visit

Notre Dame: If this is your first visit, don’t miss Notre Dame, the Louvre, Champs-Elysées and the Latin Quarter. www.catholique-paris.cef.fr

Eiffel Tower: It’s impossible to be in Paris and miss the Eiffel Tower, but it’s open daily in winter 9.30am to 11pm and summer 9am until 11pm or midnight when you can climb up to the third platform for stunning city views. www.tour-eiffel.fr

The Arc de Triomphe: Was built in honour of Napoleon’s victories. It’s an impressive Arc well worth seeing; inside is a small museum and you can go up to the roof for another breathtaking view. Straight ahead is the spectacular Champs Elysées, now better than ever with a second row of plane trees planted either side and freshly refaced shops and offices. www.monum.fr

Louvre: The “biggest museum in the world”, the irresistible Louvre houses some of the world’s greatest masterpieces including the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. www.louvre.fr

Musée d’Orsay: Second-timers should consider the Musée d’Orsay, installed in a former train station with wonderful art collections from 1848 to 1914, Montmartre (think Toulouse-Lautrec, can-can girls, Renoir and Picasso) Sacré-Coeur, opulent basilica open daily 6.45am until 11pm, the aristocratic Marais district and the Musée Rodin.
www.musee-rodin.fr
www.musee-orsay.fr

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Around the City

The Palace of Versailles takes 40 minutes on the RER line C to Versailles-Rive Gauche. Inspired by Louis XIV, it is the blueprint for French regal splendour, bulging with extravagant gold décor and Baroque excess. One of the most stunning rooms is the Galerie des Glaces (hall of mirrors), where the Treaty of Versailles was signed to end World War One. The grounds are huge and stunning. A 50-minute train ride from Gare de Lyon, takes you to Fontainebleau, a sumptuous 16th century palace built during the reign of François 1. The château bursts with Italian art and décor and, when you’ve had your fill, escape to the surrounding forests for a hike or a cycle ride.

Disneyland Paris is just 32km east of the capital, take the RER line A to Marne-la-Vallée Chessy, a 40 minute ride. If you’re travelling with kids, it’s a must. Divided into three areas, Disneyland Park, Walt Disney Studios Park and Disney Village, it offers the full Disney experience of thrilling rides, cartoon characters, film sets and virtual reality adventure.

Walt Disney Studios Park is particularly fun, focusing on animation where cartoonists can be seen at work and audiences can join in on mock film and TV sets. If it’s too much for one day, stay at one of the six themed hotels in Disney Village.

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Nightlife

As to be expected in such a cosmopolitan city, the range of music in Paris is as diverse as its inhabitants. It offers Europe’s best variety of world music, from Algerian to Latin American. Rap, hip-hop and techno remain highly fashionable and jazz fans are simply spoilt for choice. French chanson, made popular during the war years by the likes of Edith Piaf and Maurice Chevalier, is currently making a come-back.

Classical music is also huge and it’s easy to find free or very cheap performances held in churches. Main venues for big orchestras are the Cité de la Musique, Conservatoire (+33 1 40 40 46 46) and Salle des Concerts (+33 1 44 84 44 84). Buy tickets in advance from box offices, prices are good compared with London. www.cite-musique.fr

Big-scale opera productions are staged at Opéra-Bastille (+33 1 40 01 19 70) or Palais Garnier (+33 1 40 01 22 63) and Théâtre du Châtelet (+33 1 40 28 28 40). Book at least four weeks ahead. Paris rivals Las Vegas for high-kicking cabaret clubs but entry is expensive.

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Paris Business

Buying a property in Paris can be a daunting process. Unless your French is extremely good the legal process, quite different from British property law, is best handled by a bilingual estate agent and solicitor. Fortunately, there are plenty of agents with offices in both the UK and Paris with English-speaking staff who’ll endeavour to make the experience as painless as possible.

They will organise viewing trips, give plenty of practical tips and guide you through the buying process and explain fees - the Notaire’s fee (equivalent to the UK stamp duty) and French agent’s fee which can be anything from four to 15 percent. They will also undertake everything from searches, surveys and inheritance to the final signing in English.

Companies like Property Consultation and Search Services will also do the ground-work, searching out your dream property if you’ve no time to look yourself. They’ll also help with contract-signing, getting a mortgage, setting up utilities and renovation plus property rental. With over 4,000 rental agencies in Paris, some insider knowledge could be invaluable!

French Mortgage Connection also has a comprehensive list of bilingual estate agents and property-finding agents, and, very usefully, English-speaking Notaires and solicitors.

If you’re looking to set up business in Paris, the Paris Chamber of Commerce offers invaluable information on legal, tax and accountancy issues.
www.ccip.fr
www.frenchpropertyinsider.com
www.french-mortgage-connection.com

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An Insider’s Perspective

Deep thinking philosophers and literary giants still command plenty of respect in St-Germain, two centuries after the first brain-boxes frequented its criss-crossing, narrow streets, the erstwhile haunt of Voltaire, Diderot, Camus, Satre and Simone de Beauvoir.

The original art galleries opened here in the 1920’s and shocked the public by being the first to show modern and abstract works. In 1900, Oscar Wilde died aged 46 at the Hôtel d’Allemagne, now number 13 Rue des Beaux-Arts, penniless and broken after his prison term.

You can still eat at the two most famous literary cafés, Les Deux Magots and Le café de Flore and although they get packed out, they’re great for people-watching. Le café de Flore has attracted plenty of brainy clientele since opening in 1890, Sartre and Camus were regulars, while Picasso and Apollinaire edited art magazines at the back.

But if you’re looking for today’s Who’s Who, try Brasserie Lipp, where you’re more likely to spot a famous footballer than a philosopher.

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